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Copyright: MCSA - KZN 2001 ©

The route descriptions given here range from accurate to very sketchy. Some are based on recent first hand accounts whilst others are based on vague memories. I am keen to obtain further information about this excellent venue. If you climb any of these routes please send your suggested RD, grade, star rating, comments, etc. to Gavin Peckham at P O Box 593, Empangeni, 3880 : Tel 035-792 4543 : E-mail: gpeckham@pan.uzulu.ac.za .Your contributions will be greatly appreciated. - please make an effort! Several people have made significant contributions to these pages - please see the acknowledgements. Derek Marshall has opened at least 50 more routes since I last updated these RDs, but I am still waiting for these details.

• SERIOUS WARNING: Most of the crags can be reached in complete safety, or at least with reasonable safety. However, there are several areas where steep grass slopes drop straight off into the sea. Watch your footing very carefully when scrambling down to the crags at these spots, especially if the grass is damp - the consequences of a slip could be serious. There are plans to place U-bolts along the top of the crags to facilitate abseiling in to various sectors but this project is yet to be started.
• Beware of loose rock and wear a helmet.
• Most of the climbs are safely above sea level, but if you plan to tackle routes down at the water's edge, then check the tides carefully and beware the occasional big waves that smash into the cliffs.
• The noise of the wind and sea may hamper communications between climbers at times. Make sure that you have arranged an alternative to verbal communication should this prove necessary.
• Be cautious about using your hands when scrambling around on the steep grass slopes. Many of the larger tufts of grass conceal small amatingulu (Carrissa) thorn bushes. Sores caused by these vicious thorns are particularly painful and usually become infected in a very short space of time.

The routes at Morgan Bay are located on about 50 crags and outcrops scattered over five separate headlands. The Headlands have been numbered from 1 to 5 starting from the Morgan Bay side and moving southwest towards Double Mouth - see map. On each headland the crags have been numbered A, B, C, etc. In general, this sequence moves from northeast (Morgan Bay) side, around the edge of the headland to the southwest (Double Mouth) side, but there are exceptions.

Note: The compass bearings given in some previous RDs were confusing and many were incorrect. In an attempt to minimize confusion, these RDs make reference to: Morgan Bay side ; Double Mouth side ; Inland side ; Seaward side. As you change your position on a Headland, the sea can be on almost any side of you. So, to try and make sense of the terms 'seaward' and 'inland', imagine a straight line connecting Morgan Bay and Double Mouth. Now imagine a second line at right angles to the first. This second line defines the directions 'seaward' and 'inland' irrespective of the position of any bay or inlet.

For the relative positions of the various crags, see: Map of First Headland

To reach the crags on the Morgan Bay side of this headland, take the road to Double Mouth and then follow the track that leads off to the left on the sharp bend just after the small, concrete bridge and before starting up the steep hill. Park at the end of the track and follow the path down to the beach or along the edge of the headland. To reach the crags on the Double Mouth side of the headland, take the track that turns off to the left about half way up the steep hill after the small concrete bridge on the outskirts of Morgan Bay village. This track runs straight out to the end of the Second Headland, but if you turn off to the left soon after turning onto the track, then you can drive across to the top of the First Headland. The tracks are sometimes so faint as to be almost invisible - especially out of holiday season when there are fewer sightseers.

1A. BAY WATCH CRAG - Location : Topo : Photo

This crag is very easily accessible and has a selection of short easy lines. It is down at sea level, at the back of a broad rocky beach. The crag tends to be wet if strong easterly winds are blowing but provides good climbing when the sea is calm or when the wind is blowing offshore. The topo shows the location of the various routes. The routes are listed from left to right.

Opening party: Gavin Peckham (07 July 2002)

Climb the line of short recesses immediately to the left of the arete at the left-hand end of the face.

Opening party: Derek Marshall and Allen Luck (July 2001)

Climb the blocky right-tending line that starts at the left-hand end of the face and exit up the left-facing V-groove at the top.

3. Silicone Delight (18) ***

Opening party: Derek Marshall and Allen Luck (July 2001)

Layback up the good crack line 3 m from the left-hand end of the face and 2 m to the right of 'Revolution Now'. A nice line - strenuous but well protected.

Bugs Sprouse's project - not yet opened. This takes the very thin crack line just to the right of 'Silicone Delight'.

Opening party: Derek Marshall and Allen Luck (July 2001)

Climb the off-width / chimney 6 m from the left-hand end of the face.

Opening party: Derek Marshall and Allen Luck (July 2001)

Climb up just to the right of the 'Time Marches' chimney and then move 1 m right to a ledge and finish up the top of 'No Hassle'. An arbitrary eliminate.

Opening party: Allen Luck and Derek Marshall (July 2001)

Start 2 m to the right of the 'Time Marches' chimney. Climb straight up to a small ledge and finish straight up the very short left-facing corner.

Opening party: Derek Marshall and Allen Luck (July 2001)

Start 1 m to the right of 'No Hassle'. Climb easily up blocks to an overlap and then pull through using a good undercling.

9. Delta Force (12) ***

Opening party: Allen Luck and Derek Marshall (July 2001)

Start 1 m to the right of 'Windmill, Windmill' and climb the good, right-tending crack line at the back of the left-facing corner.

10. Nein (09) **

Opening party: Allen Luck and Derek Marshall (July 2001)

Start 3 m to the right of 'Delta Force' and climb straight up the pleasant but very easy line to the top.

1B. PROMETHEUS - Location : Topo

Park as for 'Bay Watch Crag'. Instead of walking down onto the bouldery beach, follow the path that runs along the base of the headland just above 'Bay Watch Crag'. The 'Prometheus' outcrop is virtually on the path and about 50 m from the parking area. The land drops away steeply from the base of the outcrop so make sure that the belayer is tied in securely. The routes are listed from right to left. Walk off towards the Morgan Bay side.

1. Prometheus (17) *** Photo

Opening party: Dave Freer and Pete Hawkes (March 1982)

This awkward route takes the obvious crack line on the protruding seaward face of the crag. There are a couple of good cracks on the outcrops immediately to the right of 'Prometheus' but they are very short indeed.

2. Icarus (14) *** Photo

Opening party: Derek Marshall and Gavin Peckham (19 December 2002)

Around the corner just to the left of 'Prometheus' (on the Double Mouth side) there is an obvious Y-shaped crack. Climb the right-hand side of the Y to a large ledge and then up a short face / block to the top.

3. Pegasus (15) *** Photo

Opening party: Derek Marshall and Allen Luck (July 2001)

Climb the left-hand side of the Y-shaped crack and keep following the left-tending line of cracks to the top.

1C. ANGELS WALL - Location : Topo : Photo

This crag may be reach by following the approach 'Bay Watch Crag' described above and then simply walking about 20 m further to reach a broad rock ledge at the base of the wall. Alternatively, scramble down the short, rocky gully directly in front of 'Prometheus' to reach the same rock ledge. This wall tends to be wet for long periods but provides good and easily accessible climbing when it comes into condition with a calm sea, a low tide and an off-shore breeze. The routes are listed from left to right.

1. Frigidaire Chimney (11) - no stars

Opening party: Dave Freer and Barbara Freer (July 1982)

Location: Above the shelf just after the Angels Wall shelf. Reached by abseil from the top of a gungy gully.

Route: Climb a straight chimney starting 3 m off the deck/water (this 3m is graded 18). The climb is infested with sand worms, wetness and loose flakes. About 12 m long. Worth recording only to stop anyone from wasting their time doing it again. A heap of shit. (We have not yet been able to locate this route.)

Opening party: Robert (Bugs) Sprouse, Gavin Peckham and Anthony van Tonder (05 January 2003)

Start 3 m to the left of the 'Where Angels …" crack. Climb easily up the obvious line to the overlap. Pull through using a concealed jug up and out to the left and then continue on up to the top.

Robert (Bugs) Sprouse. This takes the very thin crack line immediately to the right of 'Fallen Angel'.

Opening party: Gavin Peckham and Robert (Bugs) Sprouse (05 January 2003)

Start 1 m to the left of the 'Where Angels …' crack and climb straight up onto the sloping block in the recess. Step out left onto the face and climb straight up to the top - thin. The only gear is out to the right in the start of the 'Angels Fear …' crack and behind the sloping block in the recess. There is no gear on the face.

Opening party: Derek Marshall and Gavin Peckham (19 December 2002)

Start as for 'Where Angels …' but instead of stepping out to the crack on the right, continue straight up into the base on a V-shaped recess that is climbed to the top.

Opening party: Dave Freer and Pete Hawkes (April 1982)

Climb the crack in the middle of the face for 4 m until it is possible to step across into the start of the excellent, vertical crack line 1 m to the right. Climb this crack to the top. It is easier but less appealing to climb up for 5 m into the 'Demons' recess before stepping out to the right. Very well protected.

Opening party: Derek Marshall (19 December 2002)

Climb the groffly chimney about 3 m to the right of 'Angels'.

Opening party: Gavin Peckham and Derek Marshall (19 December 2002)

Climb the pile of stacked blocks immediately to the right of 'Water Baby'. Somewhat suspect blocks with dodgy gear.

9. On the Outside Looking In (10) **

Opening party: Gavin Peckham (19 December 2002)

Stem up the outside of the chimney about 3 m to the right of the 'Water Baby' chimney and immediately to the right of 'Gung Ho'.

Opening party: Gavin Peckham (19 December 2002)

Start at the bottom right-hand corner of the small face immediately to the right of 'On the Outside Looking In' and climb the obvious left-tending, stepped line on excellent rock. Good 'climbing' at its grade - your great grandmother should start her climbing career here!

Opening party: Gavin Peckham (05 January 2003)

Start 4 m to the right of 'Cupid' and climb up the centre of the seaward face of the short, notched pillar.

1D. LUST OR LOVE CRAG - Location : Topo

Carry on along the path for about 50 m past 'Prometheus'. The 'Lust or Love Crag' on a grassy ledge just above rocks forming a cave over a dangerous chimney - make sure the belayer is tied in properly, especially for the first couple of routes mentioned below. Scramble off easily towards the Morgan Bay side of the crag. The routes are listed from right to left.

Opening party: Allen Luck and Derek Marshall (July 2001)

Start 1 m left of the extreme right-hand end of the crag. Climb up tending slightly left and finish through the chute at the top. Much easier than it looks.

Opening party: Allen Luck and Derek Marshall (July 2001)

Start 2 m to the left of 'Shagadelic'. Climb the obvious right-tending line to finish up through the same chute as the previous route.

Opening party: Gavin Peckham and Derek Marshall (19 December 2002)

Start 1 m to the left of 'Up and Coming'. Climb straight up good grooves in the very short face to reach a large ledge and then climb the left-facing corner to the top.

Opening party: Derek Marshall and Allen Luck (July 2001)

Start around the blunt arete to the left of 'Keeping Abreast'. Step up off a block and climb the short face to reach the same ledge as on 'Keeping Abreast'. Finish up the same left-facing corner as 'Keeping Abreast'..

Opening party: Allen Luck and Derek Marshall (July 2001)

Start in the corner a couple of metres to the left of 'Tease Me Please Me'. Climb the recess / chimney past wedged blocks to the top.

Opening party: Gavin Peckham and Derek Marshall (19 December 2002)

Start about 2 or 3 m to the left of the 'One Up, One Down' corner. Climb the short face on flaky jugs to reach a large ledge. Climb a very short bulging face to the top.

Opening party: Derek Marshall and Allen Luck (July 2001)

This line is around the blunt arete to the left of 'Liquor's Quicker' and on the face to the right of the 'Candy's Dandy' corner. Follow the obvious left-tending line that crosses the face and then straight up past the left-hand end of the ledge mentioned in 'Liquor's Quicker'. Gear is dodgey.

Opening party: Derek Marshall and Allen Luck (July 2001)

Layback to the right, straight up the big corner and then up through the obvious crack to the top. Only 17 if you layback up the corner - much easier if you step across onto the ramp on the left.

9. Give It To Me Baby (12) **

Opening party: Allen Luck and Derek Marshall (July 2001)

Start to the left of the 'Candy's Dandy' corner. Climb the big, easy ramp and then up the cracks to the top.

Opening party: Derek Marshall and Allen Luck (July 2001)

About 3 m to the left of the 'Give It To Me Baby' ramp there is an off-width at the back of a right-facing corner formed by a pile of three large, stacked blocks. Climb the off-width to the top of the blocks. Move left and then step up onto the face and climb to the top keeping just to the left of the arete.

Opening party: Gavin Raubenheimer and Anthony van Tonder (07 January 2003)

Start up the 'Don't Believe Her' off-width to the top of the second block. Hand rail out to the right for about 4 m (luverly!) to reach the most incredible underclings - you can hang round here all day whilst you work out the crux move. Reach up high to a crimper (crux) and climb through to the top.

1E. CALIFORNIA AREA - Location :Topo : Photo

On the road to Double Mouth, take the first gate to the left - about halfway up the steep hill after the small concrete bridge at the edge of the village. The track runs out to the end of the Second Headland, but if you turn off to the left soon after going through the gate, you can follow a vague track out to the end of the First Headland. To reach the California Area, walk to the most seaward end of the First Headland and look for a vague fisherman's path. This leads diagonally right (as you face the sea) down a steep grass slope to an 'easy' chimney. The chimney looks quite daunting, but is only about grade 7 or 8 - if fishermen can climb down this with all their gear, then so can you ! At the bottom of the chimney there is a small free-stander ahead of you and slightly to the right. This has a couple of routes on its seaward side. To access these routes and the other routes in the California area, turn to your right at the bottom of the chimney and step through the narrow gap between the free-stander on the left and the bulk of the rock on the right. Scramble down to the rock ledge below. This broken ledge is about 20 m above the sea and slopes gently up as you walk along it towards the Double Mouth side. Two excellent faces rise from this ledge. They are separated by a 4 m wide rectangular recess. The base of the recess is partly blocked by a large block. Just beyond the second face, at the furthermost end of the ledge and about 30 m from the small free-stander, is a pillar with the obvious 'Paradise Road' crack facing back towards the Morgan Bay side. In large surf or high wind the ledge will be wet with spray and sometimes even by waves - in which case, the climbs are also wet - go and climb somewhere else! The routes are listed from right to left.

1. Apple Crumble (14) No stars

Opening party: Allen Luck and Derek Marshall (July 2001)

From the base of the descent chimney step through the narrow gap and then scramble down and around to the seaward / Double Mouth side of the small free-stander. Climb the loose, blocky line 1 m to the right of the 'So Few Are Free' crack which runs up the centre of the small face. This is a route to be avoided !

Opening party: Derek Marshall and Allen Luck (July 2001)

Scramble down and around to the seaward / Double Mouth side of the small free-stander and climb the perfect crack up the centre of the face.

Ian Schwarts' RD: Opening party: Ian Schwartz. Starts in the overhang to the right of 'Sleeping With The Dog' .

Stewart Middlemiss' RD: Opening party: Stewart Middlemiss and Ian Schwartz (April 1992). Climbs the middle of the (steeper) slab immediately to the right of the descent path from the front of the headland. Very exposed to the elements. 

Opening party: Dave Freer, Barbara Freer and Pete Hawkes (Date ?)

Start up rotten crack/ledges in the centre of the recess that separates the two smooth faces. Continue up this for about 8 m until it begins to overhang / rot away. An awkward move follows in which you step across to the right-hand crack. You then finish up the right-hand crack. An easy climb with one hard move and lots of suspect rock.

Opening party: Dave Freer, Barbara Freer and Pete Hawkes (Date ?)

Start in the big recess and climb the crack to the left of 'Nowhere Man'. Use predominantly the right wall and then about halfway up the left wall until you arrive under a small overhang about 3 m from the top - break left and finish up a series of easy ledges. There are lots of loose flakes, but the line is well protected. Belay on top of the block next to the path. Variation: Continue straight up past the overhang and finish up the smooth open book (grade 17).

I think that this line is just a couple of metres to the right of 'California Dreaming'.

Ian Schwarts' RD: Opening party: Ian Schwartz. Climb the prominent crack.

Stewart Middlemiss' RD: Opening party: Stewart Middlemiss and Ian Schwartz (April 1992). Climbs the crack system in the middle of the highest slab / wall to the right of the descent. Climb straight up the crack, moving rightwards near the top. 

Opening party: Dave Freer and Barbara Freer (July 1982)

Towards the far (left-hand) side of the second face there is a double crack system. The left-hand crack curves to the right about 4 m up before continuing up as a V-shaped groove. Start up the right-hand crack. At about 5 m move across into the left-hand crack which is climbed up a narrow V-shaped groove. Exit through a slightly overhanging, wide crack at the top. This is a well protected route with considerable variety and a beautiful position. Cool on hot days, but may be wet.

8. Paradise Road (18) *** Photo

Opening party: Gavin Peckham and Derek Marshall (19 December 2002)

Scramble along for about 5 or 10 m past 'California Dreaming' to reach a pillar that is separated from the main face by a narrow, chossy chimney / gully. Climb the excellent crack up the middle of the side that faces you as you walk / scramble in towards it - i.e. the crack on the Morgan Bay side. The crack gets progressively more difficult as you move up. The wide ledge at the top of this pillar is also the top of several routes that start much lower down from the Lower Promised Land sector, but these are accessed by a completely different approach.

1F. PROMISED LAND (Lower) - Location : Topo : Photo

There are a whole lot of new routes in the Upper Promised Land area but I have not yet received these details from Derek Marshall. The convoluted access path down to the Lower Promised Land is virtually impossible to describe. Anyway, you start by going to the furthest end of the First Headland and then walking back along the edge of the steep ground towards the Double Mouth side. About 50 m(?) back along the edge from the car park you can start to scramble down over the edge quite easily. From here on you start working your way down and left (facing downhill). In doing so you pass several sections of the Upper Promised Land area. Keep going down then left; down then left repeatedly until you eventually end up (at low tide) on a good ledge about 5 m above sea level. The ledge is covered with yellow tassels of seaweed. These are usually bone dry and safe to walk on at low tide and in good weather. From the far (Morgan Bay) side of this ledge the 'Shark's Tooth' at the end of the First Headland can been seen about 30 m away, jutting out into the sea. If you look up from this point you will see the California faces way up above you and off to the right. The map of the First Headland gives a reasonably good general impression of how to get there except for the fact that about 5 or 6 'left then down' step-wise manoeuvres are required to reach the ledge.

The following four routes are listed from left to right. They all end up on the same large ledge (optional belay) and then climb the same short face to another large ledge (preferable belay). This second ledge is located at the top of the 'Paradise Road' pillar as described under the routes in the California Area. The obvious route up the final short face is the crack up the centre of the face, but there is another crack slightly further left or a more blocky line further to the right if you are determined to finish each of these routes by a different line. From the belay ledge at the top of this final short face, it is an easy scramble straight up a loose but easy angled slope to the top of the Headland.

Opening party: Gavin Peckham and Derek Marshall (14 December 2002)

Climb the left-facing corner to a ledge at the base of a deep recess / chimney. Continue up the short face on the right on rounded holds with tricky gear to reach a large ledge. Climb the short face at the back of the ledge to reach another large belay ledge.

Opening party: Derek Marshall and Gavin Peckham (14 December 2002)

Start just to the right of 'Duke of York'. Climb up to reach the start of a vertical, right-facing V-shaped recess formed by a long 'flake'. Climb the V-shaped recess to reach a short open book. Climb the crack up the back of the open book to reach a large ledge. Climb the short face at the back of the ledge to reach another large belay ledge.

Opening party: Gavin Peckham and Derek Marshall (14 December 2002)

Start just to the right of 'Any Monkey Can' and climb a pair of finger cracks to reach a small sloping ledge at the base of a recess. Climb the crack up the back of the short corner on the right (difficult if wet - we pulled on gear) to reach a large ledge. Climb the short face at the back of the ledge to reach another large belay ledge. Bomber gear all the way.

Opening party: Derek Marshall and Gavin Peckham (14 December 2002)

Start a couple of metres to the right of 'Anything But Down'. Climb the on-balance corner below a roof split by a crack. Just below the roof, exit to the left (crux) and then take the easiest line up a large ledge. Climb the short face at the back of the ledge to reach another large belay ledge.

Kremlin Cove is the bay between the First and Second Headlands. Access to this friendly cove is down the obvious, broad, easy-angled grassy gully that leads down between the First and Second Headlands. There are routes on both sides of the cove and on the small sea stack in the middle of the cove. The routes given below are on the Morgan Bay side of the cove and are listed from left to right as you walk in. From the top of each route you need to scramble up carefully on mixed rock and grass until you can walk across back to the grassy gully that leads down to the cove. For routes on the Double Mouth side of the cove, see 2A.

1G. CASSINGA FACE - Location : Topo : Photo 1 : Photo 2

Opening party: Gavin Peckham and Derek Marshall (07 July 2002)

Near the left-hand end of the wall, on the Morgan Bay side of the cove, there is a large patch of bright orange lichen covering the rock. Start at the left-hand end of a tiny grass ledge located directly below the orange patch. Climb the crack line on the right-hand side of a small pillar / block in the corner. From the top of the block, step out and around to the right and then climb easily through the orange rock by following the crack line that runs up diagonally to the right.

Opening party: Derek Marshall and Allen Luck (November 2002)

I think this route takes the crack up underneath the stepped, blocky line just to the right of 'Agent Orange'.

Opening party: Craig Bester and Allen Luck (07 July 2002)

Start about 3 m to the right of the previous route at the right-hand end of the small grass ledge mentioned above. Climb (walk?) up the very short, very easy crack that runs up diagonally to the right.

Opening party: Gavin Peckham and Derek Marshall (07 July 2002)

Start about 5 m to the right of 'Golden Eye'. Climb a short crack to reach a large flaring recess. Either top out straight up, or rather, step out onto a ledge on the right. Shuffle across to the right-hand side of the ledge and then climb the short slab to the top.

Opening party: Derek Marshall and Gavin Peckham (07 July 2002)

About 5 m to the right of 'Crazy Mary' there is a distinctive, smooth-sided, right-facing corner located at the point where the layer of brown rock disappears underground. Climb the crack up the back of the corner making use of the solidly wedged chock stones near the top.

Opening party: Derek Marshall and Gavin Peckham (07 July 2002)

About 3 m to the right of 'Stalingrad' there is a pair of cracks about a metre apart. About 8 m up, the right-hand crack swings left and merges with the left-hand crack. This route climbs straight up the left-hand crack.

Opening party: Derek Marshall and Gavin Peckham (07 July 2002)

This line starts up the right-hand crack mentioned above. About 6 m up, just before the crack merges with the one on the left, step out to the right and continue easily up to a small slab, which is climbed on its left-hand edge.

Opening party: Gavin Peckham and Derek Marshall (07 July 2002)

Start about 1 m to the right of the previous route. Climb the brown rock for about 3 m to a small ledge / stance at the base of a 4 m high recess formed by a curved wall. Climb the recess and then climb the crack line up the centre of the small slab above (same slab as previous route).

Opening party: Allen Luck and Craig Bester (07 July 2002)

Start about 2 m to the right of 'Buffalo Bastards' and climb straight up the big crack line for about 25 m. The crux is getting off the ground up through the brown rock to the start of the crack.

There is potential for new routes further around to the right. These all start over the sea and it will be necessary to traverse or abseil in to the start of any such routes.

1H. KREMLIN SEA STACK - Location

This stack can only be safely reached in ideal conditions with a spring low tide and a very calm sea. Under slightly less ideal conditions, a plank about 2 or 3 m long is required to make a bridge and provide safe and easy access the bottom ledge of this small sea stack. Frankly the two short routes on the stack are hardly worth the effort unless you can simply walk up to them. I have not yet received details of these routes, but they run up the same major crack line with one on either side of the stack. They were both opened in November 2002 by Derek Marshall and Allen Luck (who else? !!!) The one on the Morgan Bay side is about grade 17 (Photo) and that on the Double Mouth side is about grade 15 (Photo).

Routes on the Second Headland - Puffadder Headland

For the relative positions of the various crags, see: Map of Second Headland

To reach the Second Headland take the road to Double Mouth. After crossing the small concrete bridge on the outskirts of Morgan Bay village drive about half way up the steep hill and then take the track that turns off to the left. This track runs straight out to the end of the Second Headland.

2A. KREMLIN WALL - Location : Topo : Photo

This is the wall on the Double Mouth Side of Kremlin Cove. Access to this friendly cove is down the obvious, broad, easy-angled grassy gully that leads down between the First and Second Headlands. You can get off most of the routes by an easy scramble down gentle slabs and scree just to the right of 'Black Adder'. The routes given below are listed from right to left.

Opening party: Craig Bester and Allen Luck (07 July 2002)

It is difficult to describe the location of this route accurately, but as you walk down the final grass slope approaching Kremlin Cove, check the broken rock on your right - look for a left-facing corner that leans back at the top. Climb up blocks to a ledge at the base of the corner and then climb the crack up the back of the corner.

Opening party: Gavin Peckham and Derek Marshall (07 July 2002)

If you stand in Kremlin Cove and look at the Double Mouth side, you will see an impressive 30 m column of rock towering up against the skyline. The route is located on the wall more or less directly below the column. In this vicinity, look for a triangular patch of grass that slopes up to the right. The route starts at the crack near the top of the patch of grass. Climb the wide, left-tending crack line until it merges with the next route at a small stance and then climb the easy slabs to the top.

Opening party: Derek Marshall and Gavin Peckham (07 July 2002)

Start about 5 m to the left of 'Black Adder' and climb the vertical crack line to a small stance under a big block. Step across 1 m to the right to avoid the chossy upper part of the crack and then climb the easy slabs to the top - same as for the previous route.

Opening party: Allen Luck and Craig Bester (07 July 2002)

Climb the easy, stepped, right-tending off-width crack line that starts about 5 m to the left of 'Kremlin'. Only about 14 except for the crux move. The route tops out to the left of the block mentioned in 'Kremlin'.

Opening party: Allen Luck and Craig Bester (07 July 2002)

About 5 m to the left of 'Russian Roulette' there is a huge left-facing corner with two big crack lines. Climb the right-hand crack

Opening party: Allen Luck and Craig Bester (07 July 2002)

Climb the big crack line that starts 1 m to the left of 'MIG'.

2B. OVER BOARD CRAG - Location : Topo

From the car park at the end of the Second Headland, walk down the grass slope to the right and then left along the base of 'Land's End Crag'. Continue around the corner at the far end of 'Land's End' to reach this rather scrappy crag.

Opening party: Allen Luck and Craig Bester (2001) ghastly!

2. Money Penny (16)

Opening party: Derek Marshall and Kendyl Kunhardt (2001)

Opening party: Allen Luck and Craig Bester (2001)

Opening party: Allen Luck (2001)

2C. LAND'S END CRAG - Location : Topo : Photo 1 : Photo 2

This crag is at the most seaward end of the Second Headland and high up, near to the parking area. If you enjoy climbing grade 15 routes, then this is the crag for you!

Opening party: Derek Marshall and Kendyl Kunhardt (2001)

Climb the vertical crack line just to the left of the large 'Treason' recess.

Opening party: Derek Marshall and Kendyl Kunhardt (2001)

Start on the left side of the obvious large recess. Climb straight up to a small roof. Step out left onto the face and then continue straight up to the top.

Opening party: Derek Marshall and Kendyl Kunhardt (2001)

Start on the right side of the obvious large recess. Climb a sloping block (beware - this seems to be loose) to reach a ledge. Continue straight up the crack line above.

Opening party: Derek Marshall and Kendyl Kunhardt (2001)

Start as for 'So Long Mary Ann' and then traverse along the large, rising crack line to finish up 'My I on U' - not really a separate route.

Opening party: Allen Luck and Craig Bester (2001)

Climb the large vertical crack a couple of metres to the right of the 'Treason' recess.

Opening party: Gavin Peckham and Gavin Raubenheimer (05 January 2002)

Start midway between 'My I On U' and 'Windblast'. Climb the face along the thin but obvious line that tends slightly towards the right. Gear is sparse for the first 2/3 of the route.

Opening party: Allen Luck and Craig Bester (2001)

Start at the far right hand side of the 'Land's End' face. Follow the crack line diagonally up to the right and finish up the final few metres of 'My I On U'.

Opening party: Kendyl Kunhardt and Derek Marshal (2001)

Start just around the corner to the right of 'Windblast'. Climb straight up the easy-angled recess immediately to the left of the grassy chute.

Opening party: Gavin Raubenheimer and Cally Henderson (10 December 2003)

Start up 'Wind Blast'. Step across to the left onto 'My I On U'. Keep moving left using the big hand and foot rails to reach the 'Treason' recess and straddle across this - short people will need to go high and hand traverse across (strenuous) or step down onto the big block (easy). Move around the arete onto the face (as for 'Treason'). Keep traversing along to the right under a small roof and on to the end of the crag. About 25 m in all.

2D. KINDERGARTEN CRAG - Location : Topo : Photo

This small crag is within a few metres of the parking area on the Second Headland. The 'routes' are extremely short but provide a several nice moves and are easily soloed or top-roped by toddlers and grannies. The routes are listed from left to right.

Opening party: Gavin Peckham (16 December 2002)

Climb the wide, right-tending crack on the small face beyond the corner to the left of 'Rock On Top'.

Opening party: Gavin Peckham (16 December 2002)

Climb the short unmistakable chimney capped by a large chock stone.

Opening party: Gavin Peckham (16 December 2002)

Climb the flaring chimney to the right of 'Rock On Top'. The trick is to extract yourself from the bridging position to make the exit move at the top.

4. Jack Horner's Corner (10) * Photo

Opening party: Gavin Peckham (16 December 2002)

Climb the awkward sloping corner to the right of 'Wydsbeen'.

5. Rocking Horse (09) * Photo

Opening party: Gavin Peckham (16 December 2002)

Climb the crack up the middle of the face immediately to the right of 'Jack Horner's Corner'.

Opening party: Gavin Peckham (14 December 2002)

Around the arete to the right of 'Rocking Horse' there is a small face split by a crack harbouring some loose but apparently well-wedged blocks. Climb the crack.

Opening party: Gavin Peckham (14 December 2002)

Just to the right of 'Simple Simon' there is a corner. Climb the short but good layback crack 1 m to the right of this corner.

2E. MEMORIAL SLAB - Location : Topo

This is located below the two memorial plaques on the Double Mouth side, near the end of the crag. Two routes have been bolted up this excellent slab. They are both about grade 21, but I have no further details at this stage.

Opening party: Allen Luck and Derek Marshall (2001)

This route takes the off-width chimney at the left-hand side of the main slab. There is (currently) a goat skeleton at the base of the chimney - just a gentle reminder . . .

2F. PUFF ADDER CRAG - Location : Topo

These routes are short, broken, vegetated and look like a heap of choss. However, Allen and Noodles had fun climbing them and the resident puff adder had fun scaring the crap out of Noodles !

Opening party: Craig Bester and Allen Luck (2001)

Opening party: Allen Luck and Craig Bester (2001)

Opening party: Allen Luck and Craig Bester (2001)

2G. THE PLATFORM AREA - Location : Map

On the Double Mouth side of the Second Headland there is a large, broad wave-cut platform that stretches around to the tip of the Headland. This is quite an extended area and all the routes starting from the Platform are accessed by starting near the left-hand side of Land's End Crag and scrambling straight down the steep gully to reach 'The Platform'. The routes given here are listed from left to right - i.e. starting on the left nearest Catfish Cove and then working around towards the seaward end of the Headland. Please note that despite their close proximity, it is not possible to cross from the Platform to the beach in 'Catfish Cove' to or vice versa.

Opening party: Allen Luck and his Apprentices (16 December 2002)

Climb the most left-hand open book on the Platform.

Opening party: Allen Luck and his Apprentices (16 December 2002)

Just to the left of the 'Feels So Good' face there is a short pillar. Climb the left-hand off-width formed by the pillar and onto a ledge. Climb the chimney above.

3. Feels So Good (13) **** Photo 1 : Photo 2

Opening party: Gavin Raubenheimer and Gavin Peckham (05 January 2002)

This route takes the wrinkly face on the left-hand side of the decent gully - as you face back up the gully. Start in the gully near the centre of the face and directly below the main, vertical crack line that splits the upper half of the face. Climb up to the crack and then follow it to the top. This route is much better than it looks and has good gear.

4. Once in a Lifetime (16) **** Photo 1 : Photo 2 : Photo 3

Opening party: Gavin Raubenheimer and Gavin Peckham (05 January 2002)

On the right of the descent gully (facing the crags) there is a very prominent arete that runs up the edge of a pillar. Start in the recess that undercuts the arete. Climb up to the roof and exit on the right (crux). Continue up to the top keeping just to the right of the arete for most of the way. This is a superb route with bomber gear.

Around the broad sweeping corner to the right of 'Once In a Lifetime' and on the most seaward side of the Platform there is a broken face with several more routes. These routes are all in the vicinity of a huge diamond-shaped block that is perched up on a ledge and leaning back against the face - Photo . The routes from 'Howzat' to 'Follow the Sign' all top out on a large sloping ledge (Photo). From here there are three options. The first and easiest option is to scramble down a sloping slab to the left and then down a short easy chimney / gully to regain the Platform. Alternatively you can climb the knobbly face at the back of the ledge by one of several routes: the thin crack on the left of the face; the huge crack up the middle of the face or up the face to the right of the huge crack - dodgy gear. Finally, you can bypass the knobbly face by a steep scramble up a gully on the right which leads to the top of the access gully in the Land's End area.

Opening party: Gavin Peckham and Derek Marshall (16 December 2002)

About 5 m to the left of the Diamond Block there is a rectangular recess. Climb the crack up the right-hand corner of the recess.

Opening party: Derek Marshall and Gavin Peckham (16 December 2002)

Start about 1 m to the right of the previous route (4 m left of the Diamond Block). Climb up next to a vertical finger crack then move slightly left and continue up 'Howzat' for the last few metres.

Opening party: Gavin Peckham and Derek Marshall (16 December 2002)

Start about 1 m to the right of the previous route (3 m to the right of the Diamond Block). Layback up to the crack that runs up the back of an undercut, left-facing corner and continue up to the ledge.

Opening party: Derek Marshall and Gavin Peckham (16 December 2002)

Layback up into the crack about 2 m to the left of the Diamond Block and follow it up to the ledge.

Opening party: Derek Marshall and Gavin Peckham (16 December 2002)

Climb up onto the Diamond Block from either side. Climb the crack / recess on the left of the block until it is possible to step out to the right onto the knobbly face and then climb this on dodgy gear to the ledge.

Opening party: Allen Luck Apprentices (16 December 2002)

Climb the groffly off-width about 5 m to the right of the Diamond Block.

11. White Breasts of Cormorants (13) *** Photo 1 : Photo 2(AvT)

Opening party: Anthony van Tonder and Robert (Bugs) Sprouse (11 January 2002 )

About 10 m to the right of the Diamond Block there is a corner. About 3 m to the right of the corner there is a pair of vertical cracks. The left-hand crack in relatively thin and runs the full height of the crag whilst the right-hand crack is much wider and ends in the roof of a huge recess or small cave on the Platform. Climb the narrower left-hand crack. About two thirds of the way up there is a ledge between the two cracks. Continue up the left-hand crack to the top rather than taking the easier looking right hand crack.

2H. CATFISH WALL - Location

Catfish Cove is the bay with the stony beach that separates the Second and Third Headlands. Please note that despite their close proximity, it is not possible to cross from the beach in 'Catfish Cove' to the Platform or vice versa. The following climbs are listed from left to right and are all on the Catfish Wall - the wall on the Morgan Bay side of the cove.

Opening party: Stewart Middlemiss (April 1992)

Climbs the thin left-leaning crack line on the wall at the base of the slope about 10 m to 15 m inland from the waterline.

Opening party: Ian Schwarts, Mike Loewe and Wendy Jenkin (April 1992)

Near the waterline in 'Catfish Cove', there are two obvious, parallel, left tending chimneys or grooves. Climb the better-looking left-hand groove. After topping out, a scramble up very steep grass is required to regain the top of the headland.

Opening party: Ian Schwarts, Mike Loewe and Wendy Jenkin (April 1992)

Climb the right-hand of the two grooves mentioned above.

Opening party: Ian Schwartz and Stewart Middlemiss (April 1992)

Pitch 1. Start at the low tide mark and climb a thin finger crack to a ledge. Pitch 2. Continue straight up the easy but pleasant wall above.

Opening party: Ian Schwartz. Further details unknown.

Opening party: Mike Loewe and Wendy Jenkin (April 1992)

Climbs an arete three slabs to the left of 'Catfish Cove'.(???)

For the relative positions of the various crags, see: Map of Third Headland

Routes on the Third Headland are most easily reached by walking in from either the Second or from the Fourth Headlands. If you are determined to drive there, you can pick your way carefully across the veld from either of the adjacent Headlands thus saving yourself a 100 m walk.

This is the first significant bit of rock on the Morgan Bay side of the Third Headland. It is a very low crag with a huge sort of block on top. There is scope for numerous very short routes, but so far no one has bothered.

3B. CASTAWAY CRAG - Location : Topo

Opening party: Allen Luck and Derek Marshall (5 January 2002)

A short, easy line around the corner on the far left-hand side of the crag.

Opening party: Derek Marshall and Allen Luck (5 January 2002)

Climb the thinly protected slab a couple of meters to the left of 'Feeling Fragile'

Opening party: Gavin Peckham and Craig Bester (5 January 2002)

Follow the thin, obvious crack line near the centre of the face. Pass to the left of the small overhanging block at the top of the crag.

Opening party: Derek Marshall and Allen Luck (5 January 2002)

Start a couple of metres to the right of 'Feeling Fragile' and climb up to an inverted "V" (thin). Continue up to the top, finishing just to the right of the small overhanging block at the top of the crag. 

3C . STORM BRINGER CRAG - Location : Topo

Opening party: Derek Marshall and Allen Luck (5 January 2002)

Climb the fat crack on the left of the face.

Opening party: Derek Marshall and Allen Luck (5 January 2002)

Start near the centre of the face and follow a finger crack through a small roof to the top.

Opening party: Allen Luck and Derek Marshall (5 January 2002)

Start up the open book on the right and past the small roof to the top.

3D. BIONIC MAN - Location : Topo

Opening party: Derek Marshall and Allen Luck (June 2002)

Near the top of the Third Headland on the Double Mouth side overlooking Skeleton Gorge, there is a small, smooth wall facing the sea. Climb the only crack line near the middle of the smooth orange face.

Opening party: Allen Luck and Craig Bester (June 2002)

On the right-hand side of the 'Bionic Man' face is a short, squat pillar. Climb the pleasant crack line up the centre of the face on the Morgan Bay side.

Opening party: Allen Luck and Craig Bester (June 2002)

Climb the short arete on the right of 'Man van Staal'.

For the relative positions of the various crags, see Photo and Map of Fourth Headland

To reach the Fourth Headland, drive up the steep hill on the road to Double Mouth that has been mentioned numerous times above. Turn off to the left onto the first track on the level section at the top of the hill. This track leads out to the end of the Fifth Headland but there is a subsidiary track turning off sharply to the left which leads out to the end of the Fourth Headland.

4A. ROCK RABBIT CRAG - Location : Topo : Photo 1 : Photo 2

The routes below are listed from left to right in the sequence that you would reach them as you walk in.

Opening party: Anthony van Tonder, Roger van Tonder, Gavin Peckham and Eric Penman (17 July 2001)

Climb the short layback crack in the back, right-hand corner of the large rectangular recess in the crag. Pleasant and well protected, but very short.

Opening party: Allen Luck and Derek Marshall (June 2002)

Start at the base of the huge, deep recess about 4 m to the right of 'Roger Rabbit'. Chimney up and exit through the off-width at the top. A number 6 cam is very useful.

Opening party: Gavin Peckham and Derek Marshall (18 July 2001)

Climb the blocky arete on the right-hand side of the large rectangular recess in the crag to reach a large ledge. Walk about 2 m to the right and use layaway holds up the short face to the top. A more interesting exit is to step left around the corner, from the left-hand end of the ledge and then climb the steep face above - about grade 17. This variation has no protection and has only been done on top-rope.

Opening party: Derek Marshall and Allen Luck (June 2002)

Climb the middle of the face to the right of 'Remember When' to reach the ledge and then finish up the short face, as described for 'Remember When'.

Opening party: Allen Luck and Derek Marshall (June 2002)

Climb the chimney on the right-hand side of the 'Brer Rabbit' face to reach the ledge. From a block, climb the short arete on the left to reach the top.

Opening party: Craig Bester and Allen Luck (June 2002)

Climb the middle of the short slab immediately to the right of the 'Bugs Bunny' chimney

Opening party: Allen Luck and Craig Bester (June 2002)

Climb the short chimney to the right of the 'Elmer J Fudd' slab.

Opening party: Derek Marshall (June 2002)

Climb the middle of the short slab immediately to the right of the 'Nibbles' chimney.

Opening party: Allen Luck and Craig Bester (June 2002)

Climb the short chimney to the right of the 'Rogerer' slab.

4B. BLUE JAY BUTTRESS - Location : Plan : Photo

There are six routes on this small buttress which overlooks the 'Abattoir Pillar' and the 'Ticket to Ride Face'. There is a dense growth of wild bananas (strelitzia) at its base but it is quite easy to pick your way through them. The routes are described from right to left - most of the RDs refer to the route 'Blue Jay' so read that RD first !

1. Kortbroek (15) ** - Photo

Opening party: Rodney Owen, Eric Penman, Gavin Peckham and Anthony van Tonder (16 July 2001)

Climb the middle of very short, clean face around the corner to the right of 'Blackbird' and 'Blue Jay'.

Opening party: Rodney Owen, Gavin Peckham, Eric Penman and Anthony van Tonder (16 July 2001)

Start just to the right of the 'Blue Jay' corner and climb the large crack to a ledge below a prominent 'fin'. From the ledge, step up diagonally to the left and climb either the narrow, grey face just to the left of the off-width (tricky), or grovel up the off-width to the top. An excellent variation 'fin-ish' is to layback up the 'fin' to the top. This is totally unprotected - about grade 17 - a nice top-rope exercise.

Opening party: C Boswell-Brown, Carol Fenn, Fred Vogelsang, Benjy Thorpe, Pete Hawkes and others - whew ! (1983)

Get to the start of the route by jungle-bashing through the strelitzias to reach the base of a large, right-facing open-book / corner. Climb the left-hand crack of the two large cracks in the corner. Despite the apparent need for No 10 Cams, there is adequate gear. Better than it looks. The name used above is a slight modification of the original !

Opening party: Derek Marshall and Kendyl Kenhardt (June 2001)

Behind the strelitzias, about 1 m from the right-hand end of the 'Five 'o Clock Shark' face, there is a short, wide crack. Grovel up this and then scramble up the blocky arete to the top.

Opening party: Gavin Raubenheimer and Gavin Peckham (06 December 2000)

Climb straight up the thin crack system on the grey rock about 2 m to the right of 'Five o' Clock Shark'. Thin and technical. Gear is sparse - a few small cams.

Opening party: Gary Hodgekinson, Carl van der Lingen, Barbara Freer and Janice Fuller (February 1984)

Start about 10 m to the left of the 'Blue Jay' corner, in a small grassy gap between patches of strelitzia. Climb straight up the large crack line in the reddish rock at the centre of the sloping face. This route requires only a couple of awkward grade 17 hand jams which are well protected.

This excellent, L-shaped crag consists mainly of the 'Ticket to Ride' and 'Natal' faces which meet at the 'Purple Rain' arete. This is often the starting point for visiting climbers.

4C. TICKET TO RIDE FACE - Location : Topo : Plan : Photo

This crag is located below 'Blue Jay Buttress' and next to the 'Abattoir Pillar'. The pillar is separated from the L-shaped, Beatles Buttress crag by a steep, grassy access gully. The short leg of the 'L' faces the 'Abattoir Pillar' and is known as the 'Ticket to Ride Face'. The 'Natal Face' is just around the corner and forms the longer side of the 'L'. The effective height of the 'Ticket to Ride Face' increases from left to right because, although the top is level, the base (gully) drops away towards the sea. This is a very accessible and climber-friendly face which is usually bone dry. It is riddled with cracks and all sorts of new lines can be generated by using the start of one line and the finish of an adjacent line. Traverses across the wall, either just above the base, or just below the top, should also prove entertaining. The routes on this face are listed below from left to right as you walk in down the steep, grassy access gully. Copyright: MCSA - KZN 2001 ©

Opening party: Gavin Peckham and Gavin Raubenheimer (06 December 2000)

This line takes the first major crack on the left-hand side of the face. Start at the base of the rubble-filled off-width and make a couple of awkward moves up the crack. After the initial moves, things improve significantly and rest of the climb (about 5 moves !) makes interesting use of smooth pockets on either side of the crack.

Opening party: Gavin Raubenheimer and Gavin Peckham (06 December 2000)

Start as for 'Day Tripper' in the recess to the left of the big block at the base of the face. Climb the left tending ramp then follow the prominent crack-line to the top. Just below the top the crack makes a dog's-leg to the right for 1 m (crux) before continuing to the top. This is the second major crack line from the left-hand end of the face. Well protected. A somewhat technical crux for the grade

3. Day Tripper (15) *** Photo

Opening party: Dave Freer, Barbara Freer, Pete Hawkes and Gary Hodgekinson (1983)

Start in the recess to the left of the big block at the base of the face. Climb straight up the obvious crack line that finishes to the right of the prominent block at the top of the crag. This is the third major crack from the left-hand side of the face. Very well protected.

Opening party: Phillip Turnbull and Janice Fuller (August 1983)

Start as for 'Ticket to Ride', in the corner at the right-hand side of the big block, at the base of the crag. After climbing up onto the block, climb the left tending ramp and then follow the vertical crack to the top. The route involves a couple of surprisingly awkward moves.

Opening party: Dave Freer, Barbara Freer and Pete Hawkes (July 1982)

This route follows the second major crack-line to the left of the arete at right-hand end of the face. Start in the corner, at the right-hand side of the big block, at the base of the crag. Climb up the corner onto the block. Climb the crack just to the right of the edge of the block to reach a small ledge at the base of a cubby-hole. Follow the main crack which makes a dog's leg to the left at the cubby-hole and which then continues straight up to the top. A couple of large cams or hexes are useful near the top.

Variation: (22) * * * Opened by Ian Guest (20 April 2002) At the cubby-hole, continue straight up the thin crack line just to the right of the main crack by laying away to the right. An eliminate, but very technical and pleasant. Well protected with small cams and nuts.

Opening party: Wayne Clausen and John Moorcroft (27 August 1983)

This route follows the major crack-line closest to the arete at right-hand end of the face. A tricky start using jams leads to the base of the off-width crack. Proceed up the crack (facing the sea) using an exhausting, shuffling and squirming action. Needs # 4 and 5 cams. (Maybe this is the mysterious 'Purple Haze' - see below.)

7. Purple Rain (19) ***** Photo

Opening party: Clee Roy, Andrew Forsyth, Pixie Fuller and Alan Briers (01 June 1985)

Climb the arete between the 'Ticket to Ride' and the 'Natal' faces. Climb the first half by keeping just to the left of the arete. Just over half way up, step around the arete to the right and continue up more easily keeping just to the right of the arete. This is an excellent route that can be safely protected. Alternatively, the difficult start can be avoided by following the initial moves of 'The Feeling is Tight' up to the off-width crack. From here, use a thin hand-rail to move out to the right to reach the arete. Move up and around the arete (crux) which is then followed to the top.

Info Needed: We think that this line is 'Purple Rain'. If so, then a route called 'Purple Haze' should start at the same point, but we can find no reliable details for 'Purple Haze'. According to Stewart Middlemiss, 'Purple Rain, 'Purple Haze' and 'The Lap of Luxury' are "to the left of Natal". There certainly is no room to the left of 'Natal' for any routes other than those listed below, so exactly where these routes fit in is a mystery. This is possibly a case where routes have been reopened and renamed by climbers who are unaware of the activities of their predecessors. The original RD for 'Purple Rain' says:, "Start to the right of 'Purple Haze'. Follow the system of cracks up the corner edge to the top. The start is the same as for 'Purple Haze'. Use many layaway moves. Toe crunching." Note the contradictory comments about the starting position relative to 'Purple Haze' !!!

4D. NATAL FACE - Location : Topo : Plan : Photo

As mentioned above, the 'Natal Face' forms the longer side of the L-shaped Beatles Buttress. It is approached by walking down the gully between the 'Abattoir Pillar' and the 'Ticket to Ride Face' and then turning to the left around an exposed corner to reach the grass ledge that runs along the base of the face. The climbs are listed from left to right.

Opening party: Andrew Forsyth and Clee Roy (01 June 1985)

Start just to the left of the 'Catch 22' crack. Climb through the overhang on the right-hand side then continue up the face using the diagonal hold. Mantle onto a narrow ledge and then climb the crack on the left to the top. Using holds on 'Catch 22' is off route.

Opening party: Dave Freer, Barbara Freer and Pete Hawkes (1983)

Start in the large recess about 1 m to the right of the 'On the Edge' arete. Climb the left-hand crack to a small overhang formed by the base of a protruding block. Do not break right. Reach past the left side of the overhang to good jams. Pull through and cruise up easy ledges to the top. The lower section is awkward, but is only about 16. The moves through the roof are hard but are well protected.

Opening party: Dave Freer, Barbara Freer, Gary Hodgekinson and Phillip Turnbull (March 1983)

The route takes the crack about 2 m to the right of 'Catch 22'. Follow the crack up some nice laybacks to a ledge at the base of a tapering chimney. Continue straight up and then through a slight roof to the top. The top part is about 15 and the bottom a frictionless 17. Well protected and thought provoking.

That was the original RD. I do not think the lower and more difficult half of the route is well protected - in fact quite the opposite. You start by climbing up onto a slab that slopes up steeply to the right and then making a balancy move across the slab to reach a jug next to the good vertical crack line. After that it is plain sailing as described above.

Opening party: Dave Freer, Barbara Freer and Dave Reason. (1983)

This route takes the slightly overhanging crack about 2 m to the right of 'Thin Ice' and towards the left-hand side of a smooth face. Pray hard and then jam up the crack. About 6 m up there is a crack off to the left for finger locks and runners. A fantastic route. (Comment: Apparently it is very difficult to lead because virtually every move for the next handhold is a bit of a dyno and holding on whilst placing gear is extremely strenuous. Very well worth a tope rope!)

Opening party: Steve Davis and Reon van der Wiel (27 Dec 2003)

Start just to the left of the 'Acne' corner and climb up easily to a roof. Traverse left for about 3 m using big underclings and small footholds until you can move upwards again. Finish up diagonally right on easier rock. The protection is excellent.

Opening party: Dave Freer, Barbara Freer and Pete Hawkes (1983)

Start in the corner about 5 m to the right of 'Natal'. Make a bouldery start (crux) up the corner to reach a ledge and then climb the flaring crack above. Continue easily, straight up on pock marked (hence the name) rock to the top. Much better than it looks.

Opening party: Allen Luck and Derek Marshall (June 2002)

Start around the very exposed corner (rope up) to the right of 'Acne' and climb a short crack to reach a grassy stance at the base of a big chimney. Climb the blocks on the left and then continue straight up the stepped face to the top.

Opening party: Gary Hodgekinson, Carl van der Lingen (September 1983)

Go around an exposed rock shoulder (solo not advised) to the right of 'Acne' and start about 2m to the right of 'Beatles'. To the right of the big chimney there is a narrow face with a prominent crack and green shrubbery at the top. Take a direct line up the crack onto a big block. Move left around the corner onto the face and proceed up to a sloping ramp. Go up the right corner to the top. Suspect rock, but plenty of holds. An enjoyable route with average protection.

Opening party: Derek Marshall and Craig Bester (June 2002)

This line takes the off-width just to the right of 'Lost Digit'. If you don't like the exposed step-around to reach the base of the route, you can start up 'Lost Digit' and then step across to the right to reach the off-width. Either way, climb the off-width and top out onto a vegetated ledge with a tricky move. Climb the short chimney above and then up the crack on the right.

NOTE: The following three routes are to the right of 'Hey Jude' but are more easily reached by scrambling down a very steep grassy gully in the 'Natal' face that is located directly below Rock Rabbit Crag - see Plan. It is a good idea to attach a safety / ab rope on Rock Rabbit Crag to ensure a safe descent down this gully which drops straight off into Skeleton Gorge.

Opening party: Allen Luck and Craig Bester (June 2002)

Abseil down the steep, grassy gully as indicated above. On the left is a large, right-facing open book that forms the extreme right-hand end of the 'Natal' face. Climb the crack up the centre of the left-hand side of the open book.

Opening party: Craig Bester and Allen Luck (June 2002)

Climb the crack up the back of the open book.

Opening party: Derek Marshall and Allen Luck (June 2002)

Climb the obvious curving crack on the right-hand wall of the descent gully, directly opposite 'The Night Before'.

4E. THE ABATTOIR PILLAR - Location : Plan : Photo

This small pillar is located directly in front (seaward) of 'Blue Jay Buttress' and adjacent to the 'Ticket to Ride Face'. The routes are listed from right to left (clockwise) around the pillar, starting on the side adjacent to the 'Ticket to Ride' face.

Opening party: Andrew Forsyth and Clee Roy (01 June 1985)

This route apparently starts up the steep, narrow seaward face of the pillar and then moves to the right to reach the arete which is then followed to the top - hmmm - good luck !!!

Opening party: Dave Freer, Barbara Freer and Pete Hawkes (1983)

This route is located on the side furthest from the 'Ticket to Ride' face. Start on the right-hand side of the face. Climb up for about 3 m then traverse left to the centre of the face and move up into a dank chimney. Continue up the chimney passing the large chockstone (awkward) either on the left or on the right, as your fancy takes you.

Opening party: Derek Marshall (2001)

Start to the left of 'Our Lady…' and climb straight up to the base of the chimney, finishing up past the chockstone as described above.

4F. TOMBSTONE GULCH AREA - Location

Near the end of the Fourth Headland there are two small free-standers known as the Tombstones. The First Tombstone is the one closer to the Morgan Bay side of the Headland. As you look out to sea from the top of Blue Jay Buttress, it is below you and slightly off to the right. On the inland side of this Tombstone there is a steep rocky gully that runs down leftwards to a wave-cut platform at sea level. This gully is Tombstone Gulch. There are routes on both walls of the gully as well as on the far side of the First Tombstone.

The next six routes are all on the landward wall of Tombstone Gulch and are listed from left to right. 'Snark' and 'Boojum' can be accessed by simply scrambling down Tombstone Gulch.

Opening party: Dave Freer and Barbara Freer (1983)

Walk (carefully) down 'Tombstone Gulch' to the start of the shale (the layer of brown rock). Start up easy, if shaky ground to just below the obvious chimney - more awkward moves lead into this then up and out. Not worth the fear of fragility.

Opening party: Dave Freer, Barbara Freer, Carl van der Lingen, Kim Blakeway and Phillip Turnbull (1983)

Further across 'Tombstone Gulch'. Traverse across the shale to below the second break into the dolerite about 2 m below a sloping topped dolerite block. Climb up the corner onto the sloping block, up the left bearing diagonal crack line stepping out higher up to the left for a move to return to the crack to step out right and up the face to the arete (sic !!!!). Traverse 1 m left and up the face to the right of the crack. Tricky route finding on somewhat fragile rock. Not overprotected.

NOTE: The next four routes along this wall, from 'Enemy's Line' to 'It Works For Me', are much more easily accessed by walking down to the lowest and most seaward corner on the Abattoir Pillar. From here proceed carefully down steep grass for about 3 m to a safe but narrow rock ledge. Walk along the ledge towards Double Mouth for about 5 m and then scramble down easily for 2 m to another comfortable rock ledge. The following four routes start from this ledge and are listed from left to right. All four routes top out onto the same area with a 4 m open book at the back which you can climb if you like. You can get back to the ledge at the bottom by scrambling down to the right (Morgan Bay side).

Opening party: Gavin Peckham and Derek Marshall (02 July 2002)

Towards the left-hand side of the belay ledge described above, there are two right-facing corners that slope up to the left. Climb the corner on the left, moving to the left near the top.

Opening party: Derek Marshall and Gavin Peckham (02 July 2002)

Climb the corner to the right of 'Enemy's Line' to reach a tiny stance. Climb the short face above to a small ledge and then finish up the next short face (crux).

Opening party: Derek Marshall and Gavin Peckham (02 July 2002)

About 2 m to the right of 'Take No Prisoners' there is a left-tending fist jam crack that leads up to a tiny triangular roof. Climb the crack to the roof and pull through onto a big ledge. Finish up the short face above. (5 and 6 cams are useful.)

Opening party: Derek Marshall and Gavin Peckham (02 July 2002)

About 4 m to the right of 'Shore Break' there is a huge left-tending crack / recess that tapers to a point. Climb up and pull through the top of the crack using two good layaway holds (crux). Much better than it looks!

NOTE: The next routes are on the seaward face of Tombstone Gulch and / or on the First Tombstone itself. They are listed starting with the very easy access / scramble-down route on the Double Mouth side of the Tombstone and then going right to left (clockwise) around the Tombstone.

Opening party: Allen Luck and Craig Bester (06 July 2002)

Climb the nice, but extremely short crack on the Double Mouth side of the First Tombstone. This line provides ready access to the top of the Tombstone if you want to top-rope other routes and can be easily down climbed in order to get off the Tombstone when necessary.

Opening party: Derek Marshall and Gavin Peckham (06 July 2002)

Scramble down Tombstone Gulch to a point directly below the right-hand arete of the Tombstone. Climb the obvious crack line to reach the ledge at the base of the Tombstone and then climb the landward face of the Tombstone.

Opening party: Derek Marshall and Gavin Peckham (06 July 2002)

Scramble down Tombstone Gulch until you reach the start of the shale layer (brown rock). This is at a point slightly to the left of a line running down from the left-hand arete of the Tombstone that is visible above. Climb a short, wide crack to reach a blocky ledge. Next climb the Morgan Bay side of the Tombstone, starting up a left-tending ramp with a very thin crack line against the face. From the top of the ramp, climb straight up to the top.

Opening party: Allen Luck and Craig Bester (06 July 2002)

Climb the short crack system up the seaward face of the Tombstone.

11. Tomb Raider (14) ** P hoto

Opening party: Allen Luck and Craig Bester (06 July 2002)

Climb the very short arete between 'Tomb Raider' and Undertaker'.

Note: The following two routes are separate from each other and from the other routes listed above, but are listed here because they fall within the general Tombstone Gulch area.

Opening party: Allen Luck and Craig Bester (June 2002)

There is a big block perched above the landward side of Tombstone Gulch and about 5 or 10 m from the top of the Gulch in the direction of Morgan Bay. Climb the nice jam-crack up the middle of the face on the Morgan Bay side.

Opening party: Craig Bester and Allen Luck (06 July 2002)

Below the Tombstone, on the seaward side and slightly towards the Double Mouth side there is a short, left-facing open book. The route takes this open book and tops out close to the base of the Tombstone. The start of the route can be reached by a short scramble down between the two Tombstones and then around to the Morgan Bay side.

4H. THE GRAVEYARD AREA - Location : Plan : Photo

The Second Tombstone is the one closer to the Double Mouth side of the Headland. As you look out to sea from the top of Blue Jay Buttress it is off to the right, but just out of view down and behind the House of Cards. Alternatively, if you walk down to a position near the top of Tombstone Gulch then both Tombstones are quite prominent - the First to the left and the Second to the right as you face the sea. The walls directly below the Second Tombstone on its seaward side are called the Graveyard. Routes here are reached by starting more or less anywhere between the top of Tombstone Gulch and the House of Cards. From here, scramble easily down towards the sea to reach a huge broken ledge or platform that runs back to the right, under the Second Tombstone. This platform is on the brown, pock-marked layer of shale. The routes below are listed from right to left.

Opening party: Gavin Peckham and Derek Marshall (06 July 2002)

There is a smooth face directly below the Second Tombstone. On the left-hand side of this face there is a short, left-facing corner with a crack up the back and a patch of sedge-like grass at the bottom. Climb straight up the arete on the right of the corner - i.e. the arete on the left-hand side of the smooth face below the Tombstone. About halfway up on the left there is a big flake that will take a downward, but not an outward pull. Do not put a wire behind this flake, rather thread a long sling over the top of it. Gear is adequate, but some placings are marginal.

Opening party: Gavin Peckham and Derek Marshall (06 July 2002)

Start at the same point as for 'Gecko Blaster'. Climb the short crack in the corner to a stance at the bottom of a smooth sided, left-facing open book. Climb this to the top. Gear is bomber.

Opening party: Allen Luck and Craig Bester (06 July 2002)

From the left-hand side (DMS) of the platform, about 5 m to the left of 'Budgie Lungs', scramble down to a secure belay in an exposed position at the base of an off-width crack. Climb this to the top.

4I. THE HOUSE OF CARDS PILLAR - Location : Plan : Photo

Careful inspection of this pillar will indicate why it was so named! Nevertheless, it is apparently quite stable, so climb these excellent routes now before some minor earth tremor consigns them to the sea. It is possible to climb on or off the top of the pillar on the Morgan Bay side. This short climb / steep scramble is about grade 9. The RDs are listed in a clockwise sequence (right to left) starting from 'Saddle Up' which is just to the left of the scramble. It is probably easiest to locate 'Tru Grit' at the big off-width on the seaward side of the pillar and then locate the other routes by working from there.

Opening party: Allen Luck and Craig Bester (June 2002)

There is a short face on the right of the 'Airs Above the Ground' corner. Climb the short crack up this face to reach a grassy ledge.

Opening party: Dave Freer, Barbara Freer, Gary Hodgekinson and Pete Hawkes (1983)

Start in the big open book between 'Saddle Up' and 'Teething Troubles'. Bridge up the open book (about grade 17) until your hands reach the top on the right-hand side. Hand-rail out along the left wall to the cubby round the corner. Move out of the cubby and go through to the top. Moving across onto 'True Grit's' exit is unethical and cowardly ! This is a good route with fat runners and interesting exposure - a bit contrived, however, as the route may be easily ended after the bridging section.

Opening party: Stewart Middlemiss (April 1992)

Climb the arete between 'Airs Above the Ground' and 'Tru Grit' passing a poor peg about 1/4 of the way up. Footwork, not thuggery is the prerequisite for success. Don't fall low down.

Opening party: Dave Freer and Barbara Freer (July 1892)

Start on the seaward side of the House of Cards at the base of the off-width 'window' crack that runs right through the middle of the seaward face. Climb straight up the off-width crack and exit by going straight through the roof at the top. A nice, high friction route. Thinly, but well protected in the midsection, but well protected at the overhang (crux).

Opening party: Derek Marshall (February 2001)

This impressive line takes the centre of the smooth, grey face around the corner to the left of 'Tru Grit'. Follow the line of 8 bolts to the top. This was one of Mike Roberts' old projects but he never completed it - see remains of ancient bolts.

Opening party: John Alexander and Gavin Stewart (27 Aug 1983)

The route spirals up the Double Mouth and inland sides of the 'House of Cards' pillar. Start just to the left of 'Life to the Full' in the corner formed between a large block and the pillar. Layback easily up the corner and then onto the large, balancing block! From here, climb up the left-hand side of the face (no gear) past two narrow ledges. After a few metres when you reach blank rock, step left around the arete onto the side facing the Annex. Continue easily up the outside of the off-width to the top. An excellent route - well protected except where mentioned.

Opening party: Derek Marshall (2001)

This line is located in the gully around the corner to the left of 'Blockhead' and at the opposite end of the 'window' crack that runs straight through the House of Cards from 'Tru Grit' on the opposite side of the pillar. Start just to the right of the crack and climb straight up, finishing up the same final chimney as 'Blockhead'.

4J. THE ANNEX - Location : Plan : Photo

'The Annex' is on the inland side of the 'House of Cards' and is separated from it by a 2 m wide, boulder-strewn gully. Although less impressive than the 'House of Cards', it seems considerably more robust !

Opening party: Dave Freer and Barbara Freer (1983)

Start in the gully between the 'Annex' and the 'House of Cards' pillar. Traverse a couple of metres to the left along a large rail to reach the start of two thin, vertical, parallel jam cracks which are climbed to the top. Great climbing, fairly technical, a real pity that it is so short.

Opening party: Derek Marshall (2000)

Start just before the corner to the left of 'Fear No Evil'. Climb easily up the ramp to a ledge below a large, overhanging off-width. Thrutch up this to the top. 5 and 6 cams are useful !

Opening party: Dave Freer and Barbara Freer (1983)

Start around the arete to the left of 'Rabbit Killer'. Stand on the block, lean forward and reach up to place small wires in the crack to protect the take-off move (crux). Pull up on the gear to reach a small ledge and then continue up to a second ledge - shared with 'Rabbit Killer'. Step up and left, around the arete and onto the face. Follow the very thin crack line diagonally up left to the top. A bit technical, but much easier than it looks. The take-off move goes free at about 19. An alternative start that is more in keeping with the grade of the climb, is to begin as for 'Rabbit Killer'.

5. Earache (13) ** (???) Photo

Opening party: Carl van der Lingen and Gary Hodgekinson (September 1983)

Start around the arete to the left of 'One Step From Earth'. Climb the clean, left-tending crack line to the top. Pleasant and well protected - a pity that it is so short.

Note: We think that this is 'Earache'. The location given in the original RD matches exactly and there are no other possible routes nearby. However, the original route description does not match this line at all - it talks about a crack parallel to the ground and a foothold 'level with the right ear', neither of which seem to exist!

4K. BRASS MONKEY BUTTRESS - Location : Photo 1 : Photo 2

This crag is close to the parking at the top of the Fourth Headland and faces out towards the 'Linear Accelerator Ledge' on the Fifth Headland. Scramble down a steep grass ramp with the wall on your right. The top of the crag is level, but the height of the wall obviously increases as you scramble down the grass ramp. 'Beer Belly', 'Grunt', and 'Low Gear' start from this grassy ramp. At the bottom of the ramp turn inland and squeeze in between the wall and the clump of strelitzias. The remaining routes may be accessed by walking easily along the base of the wall with the strelitzias providing a nice shady belay stances.

Opening party: Gavin Peckham (06 July 2002)

Start 1 m to the right of the obvious 'Grunt' recess and climb the short, right-tending line on good holds.

Opening party: Gavin Peckham (04 January 2002)

Climb the short, pronounced, vegetated crack on the far right-hand side of the buttress, starting about half way down the grassy ramp. Recorded purely to prevent someone else from being this stupid.

Opening party: Gavin Peckham and Derek Marshall (04 January 2002)

Start about 2 or 3 m to the left of 'Grunt' and climb straight up the short, thin face to a ledge and then on to the top. Gear is very sparse.

Opening party: Gavin Peckham and Allen Luck (06 July 2002)

Walk down the grassy ramp past 'Low Gear' and then continue along the base of the crag, behind the strelitzias, until you come to the first big, right-facing corner. Climb crack in the corner for about 4 m until it is possible to step out to the right onto a small rectangular ramp of sloping rock (crux). From here, easy climbing up the obvious crack line leads to the top.

Opening party: Allen Luck and Gavin Peckham (06 July 2002)

Climb the crack in the right-facing corner until you reach the vegetation that chokes the top and then exit up the short face on the left.

Opening party: Gavin Raubenheimer and Gavin Peckham (05 January 2002)

This route goes up the narrow grey face to the right of the 'Brass Monkey' corner. Start in the recess that undercuts the arete on the left of the corner. Climb up to the roof and then move out right onto the narrow face between the arete and the corner. Climb the crack line up the middle of the face and exit to the left of the protruding block near the top. Leader and belayer beware - there is a suspect looking block just below the protruding block. Maybe someone can pry it loose with a crowbar?

Opening party: Gavin Peckham and Derek Marshall (05 January 2002)

Climb the pleasant corner about 3 m to the left of 'Crackamania'. 

Opening party: Gavin Peckham and Allen Luck (06 July 2002)

Climb the crack located about 3 m to the left of 'Pooh Corner'. The crack runs up to a recess that is currently home to a small strelitzia and other assorted vegetation which conceals good jugs in the recess. This will be a good line if 'someone' takes the trouble to 'relocate' the vegetation in the recess!

4L. PINEAPPLE RIDGE - Location

This is a line of small outcrops that runs downhill towards Bucaneer's Cove between the Fourth and Fifth Headlands. Its position relative to 'Low Gear' on the Brass Monkey Buttress is shown in this photo .

1. Banana Split (10) ** Photo

Opening party: Gavin Peckham (04 January 2002)

The tallest of these tiny pinnacles is split from bottom to top on the seaward side by an easy crack line. Climb this to the top.

2. Tangerine (10) ** Photo

Opening party: Gavin Peckham (04 January 2002)

Climb the obvious flake line on the seaward side of the second outcrop below 'Banana Split'.

BUCCANEER COVE - Location

Buccaneer Cove is located between the Fourth and Fifth Headlands. The trick in reaching the crags in this area is to find the relatively good fisherman's path down through the strelitzias. This starts at a point more or less directly inland from 'Buccaneer Cove'. Look for the largest of the various gullies that lead down from the top of the Headland towards Buccaneer Cove, then walk down the grassy ramp on the Morgan Bay side of that gully. The path starts where the gully enters the strelitzia forest. Copyright: MCSA - KZN 2001 ©. The walls and the sea stack in this cove can be accessed at low tide by walking in from the Double Mouth side and around the end of a small stack at the seaward end of Shipwreck Wall. However, it is probably best to abseil off a prominent outcrop on the ridge above 'Shipwreck Wall'. Take prussik loops and leave a fixed rope to facilitate a retreat if necessary - see map.

This is the impressive wall on the Morgan Bay side of Buccaneer Cove. There are no routes here at present.

4N. THE SHARK FIN - Location : Photo 1 : Photo 2

This lovely sea stack is reached from the obvious blocks on the landward side. All the routes can be reached by first climbing the access pitch and then using the very easy traverse along the Double Mouth side of the stack. This traverse is along the line where the brown layer of shale at the bottom, meets the black dolerite on top. There is a very large, comfortable platform at the end of the traverse, on the seaward side of the stack. There are excellent belay points on the traverse at the start of each route on the Double Mouth side. The last person off the stack can down-climb the easy route 'Sea Urchin'. Alternatively the first person can ab down this line, placing and clipping gear as he goes. He can then belay the 'leader' as he down climbs, removing the gear as he goes. To escape from the platform, the 'Access Route' must be led in reverse. Alternatively, if the sea is calm and low enough you can let the first climber ab off the platform on the Double Mouth side with all the gear and then throw the rope down. The last climber can then scramble off on the Double Mouth side from the seaward end of the platform and time his retreat between the waves.

When the tide is low and the sea is calm, this stack provides some enjoyable climbing with bomber gear in a spectacular setting. The routes are listed from left to right (anti-clockwise) starting from the access point.

1. Access Route (12) *** Photo

Opening party: Gavin Peckham and Derek Marshall (03 July 2002)

Start from the blocks on the landward side of the stack. Lean across and place gear up at arm's length on the stack. Step across onto the stack. Climb up to the top of the layer of brown rock (about 3 m) and then step up and around the corner to the right to gain the easy traverse line along the junction between the brown shale and the black dolerite. Follow this line to the start of the required route, or all the way across to the

2. Barracuda (14) *** Photo

Opening party: Gavin Peckham and Derek Marshall (03 July 2002)

There is a big crack towards the left-hand side of the face on the Double Mouth side. Belay on the traverse at the bottom of the crack and then climb the crack to the top of the stack. A # 4 cam is useful at the top.

3. Sting Ray (15) *** Photo

Opening party: Gavin Peckham and Derek Marshall (03 July 2002)

There is a thin crack towards the right-hand side of the face on the Double Mouth side. Belay on the traverse at a point below the crack. Climb easy blocks to the crack which is followed to the top. Do not try the very thin crack line just to the right of 'Sting Ray' - it is very loose at the top.

Opening party: Derek Marshall and Gavin Peckham (03 July 2002)

Start from the platform on the seaward side of the stack and climb the crack line on the left of the small seaward face.

Opening party: Gavin Peckham and Derek Marshall (03 July 2002)

Start from the platform on the seaward side of the stack and climb the crack line near the centre of the small seaward face.

For the relative positions of the various crags, see: Map of Fifth Headland : Photo

This Headland is also known as 'The Eye' headland and the 'Carnival is Over' headland. To reach the Fifth Headland, drive from Morgan Bay along the road to Double Mouth. After reaching the top of the steep hill, turn off to the left onto the first track on the fairly level section of road at the top of the hill. This track leads out to the end of the Fifth Headland. 

5A. SHIPWRECK WALL - Location

This is the wall on the Double Mouth side of 'Buccaneer Cove'. It has the potential for several more lines.

Opening party: Allen Luck, Derek Marshall and Craig Bester (10 January 2002)

The back of the cove ends in a wall with a sort of cave on either side. The far, right-hand end of Shipwreck Wall ends at one of these caves. Start just to the right of the cave and climb up to the chimney. This narrows into a short off-width which is followed to the top. You top out on very steep grass slopes - take great care as you head back uphill towards the ab-point or path.

The opposite end of Shipwreck Wall (left-hand end / seaward end) ends in a small stack that juts out into the sea. This can be easily reached from above without abseiling down into Buccaneer Cove. All the routes on this stack are very short.

Opening party: Derek Marshall and Gavin Peckham (02 July 2002)

Jam up the nice crack in the centre of the very short, inland face.

Opening party: Allen Luck and Craig Bester (June 2002)

Start around the corner to the right of, and below the start of 'Savage Attack'. Climb up to a block on a ledge and then up the big crack next to the block.

Opening party: Allen Luck and Philip Venter (June 2002)

Start about 4 m to the right of 'Broken Tooth' and climb the obvious line to the top.

Opening party: Craig Bester and Allen Luck (June 2002)

Start about 2 m to the right of 'Hammerhead' and climb the jagged arete.

Opening party: Philip Venter (June 2002)

This isolated route is located about 10 to 20 m (???) away from the small stack, along the shoreline towards Double Mouth. Look for a large block with a nice crack up the Morgan Bay side. Climb the crack.

5B. BANANA REPUBLIC - Location : Topo : Photo

The line of crags along the top of the Fifth Headland, on its Morgan Bay side is split midway by a descent gully. The section of crags on the Morgan Bay side of the descent gully is known as the Banana Republic because of the forest of strelitzia that stretches across its base. On the Double Mouth side of the descent gully is the Upper Linear Ledge. The Banana Republic Crag consists of three distinct sections. On the right-hand (Morgan Bay) side of the crag there is a smooth wall with the potential for some hard lines. It tends to be very wet, with water seeping down the wall from above during most of the rainy season (summer) and no routes have been opened here to date. To the left of this is a section of broken, vegetated rock covered with distinctive white lichen or fungus. The routes 'Eager Beaver' and 'Elephants Asshole' are located here. To the left of this and adjacent to the descent gully is the third and final section of the wall which has about five routes to date and which is generally known as the Diffusion Wall. Routes on the Banana Republic can be approached by scrambling down the descent gully between the Upper Linear Ledge and the Diffusion Wall or by walking across from the path down to Buccaneer Cove. After this it is necessary to pick the line of least resistance up through the strelitzias to the base of the wall. Once you reach the rock it is quite easy to walk along the base in the narrow gap between the strelitzias and the rock. The routes are listed from left to right starting from 'Kontiki' which is on the Diffusion Wall, closest to the descent gully between the Linear Ledge and Banana Republic

1. Not yet opened.

Opening party: Derek Marshall and Kendyl Kunhardt (2001)

Opening party: Derek Marshall and Kendyl Kunhardt (2001)

Opening party: Derek Marshall and Kendyl Kunhardt (2001)

5. Diffusion (17) *** Photo

Opening party: Robert (Bugs) Sprouse and Gavin Peckham (09 January 2002)

Start under some small roofs a couple of metres to the left of the blocky steps on 'Fu Sang'. Pass the roof on the right to reach a sharp flake in a layer of shale and then continue easily to the top.

Opening party: Kendyl Kunhardt and Derek Marshall (2001)

Climb the blocky line to the corner and then up the corner to the top.

Scramble. There is an access scramble up an easy line (about grade 8) just to the right of the 'Fu Sang' corner.

7. Eager Beaver (12) *** Photo

Opening party: Gavin Peckham and Derek Marshall (02 July 2002)

One way or another, get yourself to the base of the broken 'tower' of distinctive white rock about mid-way along the Banana Republic Wall. Walk to the left between the strelitzias and the base of the rock until you reach a dead-end on a good rock ledge that drops off into the strelitzias about 3 m below. You have now gone too far. Turn around and walk back about 3 m to a shady spot below a triangular ledge about 3 m up. The strelitzia tree that was growing on this ledge will probably have re-established itself by the time you get to this route. Don't let this put you off. Climb up onto the ledge and then climb the short off-width in the corner at the back of the ledge. Exit the off-width onto a ledge on the left, above some more jungle. From the ledge climb a slab, tending to the right to reach the start of a good crack line up a slab which is followed diagonally right to a left-facing corner and then up this to the top. Despite the close presence of the jungle, the actual climbing is on good, clean rock all the way and the line is much better than it looks. Bomber gear - a 5 or 6 cam is useful if you want to protect the short off-width.

8. Elephants Asshole (14) - no stars

Opening party: Derek Marshall - the second refused to follow! (02 July 2002)

About 5 m to the right of 'Eager Beaver' there is a narrow, vegetated, rubble-filled gully that slopes up to small cave under a huge chockstone / block. 'Climb' up to the cave and then remove all excess gear and wriggle up through a narrow sewer to top out on the chockstone. If you are larger than average you are liable to become securely wedged in this orifice. Strictly for the adventurous only. Recorded purely to prevent someone else from being so stupid.

5C. UPPER LINEAR LEDGE - Location : Topo : Photo (General) : Photo (routes)

The 'Linear Ledge' area lies on the Morgan Bay side of the Fifth Headland. If you are unfamiliar with the crags you can get a good view of the whole 'Linear Ledge' area from almost anywhere on Fourth Headland. This will help you to get your bearings. Basically there are two tiers of cliffs. The first line of cliffs is at sea level and the second line lies directly above this. A steep, wide, broken grassy ledge - the 'Linear Ledge', separates the two levels.

To get there take the grassy gully that leads off over the edge of the fifth headland about midway along its Morgan Bay side. This gully steepens into a short, rocky scramble. At the bottom of the scramble, turn to the right (facing the sea) and walk along the grassy ledge at base of the crags - this is the 'Linear Ledge'. A good reference point is the huge, flat-topped boulder at the base of the crags, near the far end of the ledge. The route 'Linear Accelerator' starts 2 m to the right of the boulder. Copyright: MCSA - KZN 2001 ©. The routes below are described from right to left, in the sequence that you will encounter them as you walk along the 'Linear Ledge' after descending the scramble.

Opening party: Derek Marshall (June 2001)

Start about 2 m to the left of the descent scramble and climb the stepped face up the centre of the small buttress to reach a grassy ledge. Move left into an open book and follow the line of least resistance to the top. Gear is sparse.

Opening party: Dave Freer and Barbara Freer (Date ?)

Just to the left of 'Easy Living' and about 12 m to the right of the large block on the 'Linear Ledge' there is a wide crack in an open book. Straddle up the open book to a large ledge and finish up the chimney above.

Opening party: Dave Freer and Barbara Freer (Date ?)

About 2 m to the left of 'Old Fashioned Book' there is a vertical crack line. Climb the slight recess which leads onto strenuous, poor jams with laybacks and hidden incuts. Break slightly left to reach a ledge and continue up the crack to the top. The jams are really poor and the climb is fairly sustained, but the protection is good.

Opening party: Dave Freer and Barbara Freer (Date ?)

Start about 2 m left of 'Worm on a Hook'. Climb a short, slightly overhanging crack line, which eases off and continues up the same crack system, to a ledge which is common to it and 'Worm on a Hook'. Continue straight up an awkward double crack to finish.

Opening party: Dave Freer (Date ?)

Start 1 m to the right of 'Burning Bush' and 2m to the left of 'Alien Way'. Climb the crack using poor pinch grips. A tricky traverse move about 8 m up takes you to a second crack. Follow this through to the ledge and continue to the top on easy rock. Protection is good, but sparse. Very sustained with only one possible rest.

Opening party: Dave Freer and Rex Quick (Date ?)

Just to the right of 'Linear Accelerator' there is a grungy looking recess. Climb up the recess and avoid the thorny amatingulu (Carissa) bush. Continue up fairly straight to the top. The bottom is pleasant with one or two 15 moves, then eases off to about 13 for the rest.

Opening party: Dave Freer, Barbara Freer, Pete Hawkes and Gary Hodgekinson (Date ?)

Start about 2 m to the right of the large, flat-topped boulder at the base of the crag. The route ascends a sloping ramp that begins about 12 m off the deck. Follow the rough crack to an awkward move where the crack changes to a ramp. Go up the ramp and finish straight up the wall - bridging and face climbing.

Opening party: Andrew Forsyth and Clee Roy (2 June 1985)

Start just to the left of 'Linear Accelerator' and climb the face using layaway holds, moving diagonally to the left. Climb to a horizontal rail. Traverse 1 m to the right and climb the thin crack to the ledge. Strenuous but well protected.

9. All My Sins Remembered (20, A2 or free at 22) * * *

Opening party: Dave Freer (1985). Freed by Stewart Middlemiss and Bill Slater (1986)

Start from the top of the large boulder just to the left of 'Linear Accelerator'. Step off the block to laybacks on the right and go up these until they run out. Next, there is a very awkward move to place a tricky runner very high in the crack to the left. Pull up on the runner and over the top onto the ledge, go on after this up the right-hand crack - nice clean climbing about grade 16 to the top.

Opening party: Stewart Middlemiss (10 July 1986)

Start at the same point as 'All My Sins Remembered'. Follow the small flake up, then move left to a large layaway. Move to a ledge above (crux). Follow crack above to the top (about 17).

Opening party: Steve Cooke and Barbara Freer (Date ?)

Start from the top of the boulder about 2 m to the left of 'All My Sins Remembered'. Climb up the corner crack to under the overhang. Move onto the ledge on the left around the overhang. Continue up the crack using the right face and avoiding the shitty rock on the left. Superb bottom moves with good protection, but gear is hard to find below the overhang where it is strenuous. The grade eases off higher up.

Opening party: Dave Freer and Barbara Freer (Date ?)

The route takes the right-hand arete of the open book above the big boulder on the Linear Accelerator ledge. Start up the overhanging finger crack about 1m to the left of the arete and continue up this until you are actually on the arete. Finish up the arete. Although short, this is a fine, strenuous jamming route.

Opening party: Morne van der Mescht (November 2000)

Climb straight up the middle of the face to the left of 'Bird on the Wire'. Five bolts plus lower-offs.

Opening party: Dave Freer and Barbara Freer (Date ?)

Climb the slight open book with a lovely, steep clean crack about 1 to 2 m to the left of the 'Teenage Punks'. Great climbing.

Opening party: Dave Freer and Barbara Freer (Date ?)

This pitch takes the obvious crack to the right of an open book and then steps left onto the top of it to avoid rotten rock and finishes to the right once again.

Opening party: Dave Freer (Date ?)

Continue along the 'Linear ledge, past the big boulder until the ledge thins out to virtually nothing. This is just below the open book of 'Sweet Surrender'. Climb the broken open book, break left and traverse to just under a very smooth V-notch in the roof. Go up through this. Most of the route is about 17 but the V-notch is ungradeable, being either very easy or hard to impossible (!) Note: The exact location of this route seems to be less than certain.

5D. LOWER LINEAR LEDGE - Location : Topo : Photo

Use the same approach as for the Upper Linear Ledge but continue down past the Linear Ledge to a platform just above the sea. A large free standing boulder provides a few boulder problems.

1. Rock 'n Roll Party (10) ** Opening party: Craig Bester and Allen Luck (2001)

2. Hail to England (15) ** Opening party: Craig Bester and Allen Luck (2001)

3. Monte Casino (17) *** Opening party: Derek Marshall and Kendyl Kunhardt (2001)

4. Vanya (17) *** Opening party: Derek Marshall and Kendyl Kunhardt (2001)

5. Gold Fears No Fire (17) ** Opening party: Derek Marshall and Kendyl Kunhardt (2001)

6. African Mask - not yet opened

Opening party: Steve Cooke and Dave Freer (Date ?)

Descend as for 'Brave, Brave Mouse'. Rope up and traverse left into a sloping recess. Climb the right-hand groove. Open book up a steppy hollow section (sic). Step out left to finish. The rock is hollow sounding, but resisted attempts to bash it off. Nevertheless, treat it with caution.

Opening party: Dave Freer, Barbara Freer and Phillip Turnbull (Date ?)

Belay at the same stance as 'On the Loose Again'. Traverse diagonally right for about 3 m until you reach the first vertical crack system. Proceed straight up this for the rest of the route to belay on the Linear Accelerator ledge between 'Brave, Brave Mouse' and 'Sweet Surrender'. Very exposed but not sustained. A few mean blocks were turfed off during the opening ascent and more cleaning may be necessary.

Opening party: Dave Freer and Barbara Freer (Date ?)

Start as for 'Brave, Brave Mouse' and continue up to the loose slat. Do not traverse right (?) as for 'Brave, Brave Mouse', but go straight on. Continue until faced with the choice of a series of steppy ledges on the left, or steepish cracks on the right. Take the cracks on the right and continue up to finish on the Linear Ledge. The next pitch was described above - no. 14.

Opening party: Dave Freer and Barbara Freer (Date ?)

Location: Descend the scramble to the Linear Ledge, but instead of turning onto this ledge, continue on down to about 10m above sea level where you will find a little point with a large boulder (about 3 m high) balanced on it. About 1m below this point, a ledge runs across the face. Start at a crack about 6 m along the ledge.

Route: Up the short, steep crack onto steppy face bear slightly left (sic). As the face starts to steepen there is a big loose slat of rock on a ledge (about 1m long), traverse this and continue up the thinish crack. This thins out alarmingly, step right to avoid shit and then drift left again to finish up a steep face of about 3 m to reach the Linear Accelerator Ledge.

5E. SWEET SURRENDER WALL (UPPER) - Location : Topo

This is a continuation of the Upper Linear Ledge but cannot be easily accessed from that side. The area can be accessed by a couple of dodgy scrambles. However, the easiest way to reach the base of this route is to take 'the long and winding road' as follows: Scramble easily down to the start of Whalebone Ridge and then walk along the base of this crag in the direction of Double Mouth. At the end of Whale Bone Ridge descend around the Double Mouth end of the Mine and walk back towards Morgan Bay along a grass ledge that is steep and narrow in places, but is generally OK. In doing so you will pass along the bottom of the Mine, the Needle, the Carnival is Over Pillar, the upper Carnival is Over wall and finally you will reach the Upper Sweet Surrender Wall. Alternatively, you can abseil from the top of the Headland onto the grass ledge between the Upper and Lower Sweet Surrender Walls. If you do this, do not stop on the first narrow grass ledge, but continue down over another 10 m of slabby rock to the bigger ledge below. The routes on this wall all start by climbing the 10m band of slabby rock to reach the narrow ledge, (which is actually a continuation of the Linear Ledge) and then continuing up the steeper face above.

4. Cliff Warfare (14) *

Opening party: Allen Luck and Craig Bester (2001)

Opening party: Dave Freer, Pete Hawkes, Dave Reason and Des Weeks (Date ?)

Walk along the base of the crag to the right until just before the ledge starts to peter out. Climb straight up the unprotected slab to the ledge and then continue up a damp chimney with some dangerous loose rock near the top. From here step out (crux) and up a short, steep crack to finish. If the chimney was dry and the loose rock was removed this would be a pleasant route - as it is .... yech !!!

Opening party: ? ? ? (Date ?)

"Location: Along Linear Ledge past 'Sweet Surrender' to below the nose."

"Route: Up a short slab, a bridging section leads to an overhanging V (*) just below the rise on the right. Proceed up this and straight on to the nose. It is possible to step out right and rest before attempting the move onto the nose. A very pleasant route which 'greases' up with salt spray on windy days and late afternoons."

(*) This is the 'V-notch' referred to in the RD for 'Sweet Surrender'

Opening party: Dave Freer, Barbara Freer, Carl van der Lingen and Kim Blakeway (Date ?)

Start about 3 m to the right of 'Gannet's View'. Climb the slab following a very thin line to the ledge (delicate). Continue up a blocky section to a V-notch, open book. Do not take the left break or go straight through the overhang but break right about 1 m and up easy (if slightly loose) ground to the top. A nice route spoiled by the ledge and the dampness of the rock in the V-notch.

Opening party: Allen Luck and Craig Bester (2001)

Start just to the right of 'Sweet Surrender'. Climb the slab to the ledge and then continue straight up the 'stairway' to the top.

Opening party: Allen Luck and Craig Bester (2001)

Start just to the right of 'Double Sensei'. Climb the slab to the ledge and then continue up the off-width open book to the top.

Opening party: Gordon Bosch, Barbara Freer and Dave Freer (Date ?)

Start just to the right of 'No Cam Fit' - about 3 m to the right of 'Sweet Surrender'. Cruise up the crack in the slab to the ledge. Climb the perfect hand jam crack and finish up the top of the pillar which is just to the left of the top pitch of 'Brave, Brave Mouse' on the Linear Ledge.

5F. SWEET SURRENDER WALL (LOWER) - Location :Topo

From the base of the upper Sweet Surrender Wall, abseil 45m down to a wave-cut platform (narrow rock ledge ???) about 2 m above sea level. This excellent area can only be climbed at low tide on a calm day. Most of the routes are about 40 m long.

Opening party: Derek Marshall and Allen Luck (2002)

Climb the stepped slab to a ledge and then continue up the broken arete to the grassy ledge at the base of the 'Sweet Surrender' wall.

Opening party: Allen Luck and Derek Marshall (2002)

Climb the broken steps straight up to the grassy ledge at the base of the 'Sweet Surrender' wall.

Opening party: Allen Luck and Derek Marshall (2002)

Climb the broken open book and then up the chimney.

Opening party: Allen Luck and Derek Marshall (2002)

Climb the left-leaning ramp to the open book which is followed up to the grassy ledge at the base of the 'Sweet Surrender' wall.

Opening party: Derek Marshall and Allen Luck (2001)

Climb the medium hand crack.

Opening party: Derek Marshall and Allen Luck (2002)

Climb up ledges, into an open book and then onto the face and continue up to the grassy ledge at the base of the 'Sweet Surrender' wall.

LOWER SWEET SURRENDER WALL EXTENSION - AKA: DUNKIRK - Topo

The next routes are at the far left-hand side of the wall on a sort of buttress. From the wave-cut platform at the base of Lower Sweet Surrender Wall, step up and around the corner to the left to reach this sector.

Opening party: Allen Luck and Derek Marshall (2002)

Climb the hand jam crack and then continue up climb the V-shaped chimney. From here continue diagonally left up the obvious line.

Opening party: Derek Marshall and Allen Luck (2002)

Start just left of 'Just Up Allen's Way' and climb the perfect finger crack. Continue up to the top, crossing 'Just Up Allen's Way' by tending slightly to the right.

Opening party: Allen Luck and Derek Marshall (2002)

Start on the platform and climb the broken open-book to reach a ramp which is followed diagonally up left to the top.

CARNIVAL IS OVER AREA - Location : Site Map

This area is located at the end of the Fifth Headland. It consists of an Upper Wall and a Lower Wall with an impressive pillar on the ledge between the two walls. There are several steep and loose scrambles into this area which are somewhat dicey. You can also walk across the huge chockstone onto the top of the pillar and then abseil down from there. However, probably the easiest and safest (but longest) approach is as follows: Scramble easily down to the start of Whalebone Ridge and then walk along the base of this crag in the direction of Double Mouth. At the end of Whale Bone Ridge descend around the Double Mouth end of the Mine and walk back towards Morgan Bay along a grass ledge that is steep and narrow in places, but is generally OK. In doing so you will pass along the bottom of the Mine and the Needle before reaching the Carnival is Over Pillar and the upper Carnival is Over Wall. The Lower Wall can only be reached by abseil.

5G. CARNIVAL IS OVER WALL (UPPER) - Location

This wall has two distinct faces separated by an arete. The face opposite the Carnival is Over Pillar is usually called the 'Full Value' face and around the arete towards Morgan Bay is the 'Super Heroes' face.

FULL VALUE FACE - Map : Topo

This is the short section of face at the top of the Fifth Headland that is located directly behind (inland) of the 'Carnival is Over' pillar. Its left-hand side starts more or less under the chockstone that forms a bridge between the top of the headland and the top of the 'Carnival is Over' pillar. Its right-hand side ends at the arete which is the start of the 'Super Heroes' face. You can ab in, scramble down through the worm-hole between the Pillar and the wall, or take 'the long and winding road' described previously.

Opening party: Garvin Jacobs, Francois van Geijsen and Hugo Vaughan (26 April 2003)

This route is located directly opposite 'Powder Finger' on the Carnival is Over pillar. If you stand with your back against 'Powder Finger' you will be looking straight at this route which is on the face about 3 m away. Layback and jam up the obvious line, staying in the groove as long as possible. Finishing about a metre to the right of the huge bridging chockstone. The route has good placings for normal and asymmetric cams.

Opening party: Jeremy Colenso (1986)

Climb the second crack to the left of the 'Full Value' arete. Zig-zag up the crack system.

Opening party: Mike Cartwright, Kevin Smith and Stewart Middlemiss (1987)

Climb the first crack to the left of the 'Full Value' arete. Poor gear that is tricky to place.

Opening party: Stewart Middlemiss and Clive Curson (1987)

Climb the arete between the 'Full Value' face and the 'Super Heroes' face. 

SUPER HEROES FACE - Map : Topo

This face is just to the right of the arete at the right-hand end of the 'Full Value' face.

Opening party: Dave Freer, Barbara Freer and Steve Cooke (Date ?)

Good grief - that's more like a poem than a name - anyway, it is mathematical nonsense - 10⁰ is not equal to 'nothing at all - it is equal to 1 !!!

Descend as for 'Moon Shadow' but continue past it around the corner to the right. There is an overhanging river of dinosaur's puke. The route goes up this. Climb the weirdly etched rock of the first break on jams and pinch grips, no rests for about 10 m, up a slight open book and then break slightly right up the twin crack system through the overhangs to the top. Strenuous but lovely climbing. Well, but awkwardly protected.

5. Superheroes (21)

Stewart Middlemiss says that this line was opened by Dave Freer and lies to the right of 'One White Duck'

Russ Dodding says it was opened by Clive Curson and "ascends a steep arete on the landward crag, just east of the CiO pinnacle" - which corresponds to the location of 'Full Value' - let me know if you can clarify the issue.

Opening party: Dave Freer, Barbara Freer, Gary Hodgekinson and Pete Hawkes (Date ?)

Descend as for 'Gannet's View'. In the descent gully, about 6 m from the boulder step down/wiggle through there is a groove in the right-hand wall. Go up the groove for about 5 m. Traverse to the right onto an easy ramp. Finish up a clean open book, reaching out to jam in the curving crack to the right. 

(We are not entirely sure where this route goes, but it is more or less here !)

Opening party: Dave Freer, Barbara Freer and Phil Turnbull. Date ?

Find the nose (as in Sinus). Looking inland go left along the edge for about 6 m to an obvious descent. Keep left. The route follows the right-most crack system on the same face as 'Superheroes' and 'One White Duck'. Follow the crack 2 m up. Here it becomes hard. Hand swing right on dubious holds continue up on shaky holds to the top back to the crack (sic !).

5H. CARNIVAL IS OVER PILLAR - Map :Topo : Photo 1 : Photo 2

If you walk along the cliff-top path, then near the 'tip' of the Fifth Headland you will see a pinnacle with an 'eye' on either side. The eye on the left is formed by a large chockstone that bridges the gap between the pinnacle and the Full Value face, adjacent to the cliff-top path. The eye on the right is formed by a pile of three, large, perched blocks leaning up against the side of the pinnacle. It is not too obvious from above, that this lump of rock is a pinnacle, but it is quite obvious from the seaward side. You can approach routes in this area by scrambling down and then descending down through a sort of worm-hole between the Pillar and the adjacent wall. This is easy, but is very difficult to reverse.

You can also get on or off the top of the 'Carnival is Over' Pillar via a short scramble of about grade 9 at the obvious low point on the inland side or by simply walking across the large chockstone that forms an 'eye'. Once you are on top of the Pillar you can abseil down to grassy platform at the base of the pillar. You can also reach the base of the Pillar by using the long, circuitous walk-in described.

Opening party: Gordon Bosch and Dave Freer (Date ?)

This route is located on the Carnival is Over Pinnacle in the descent gully just below the 'eye'. Awkward moves onto the ledge lead you to the bottom of a curving crack. Go up this. Very short but entertaining.

Opening party: Kevin Smith (1985)

Climbs the face on the Morgan Bay side of the Carnival is Over Pillar.

3. Watching the Ocean (19) *** (23m) Photo

Opening party: Russ Dodding and Paul Greenfield (19 April 1987)

Start on the right of the large block at the base of the 'The Carnival is Over' face. Climb up to the thin crack located to the left of the seaward arete on the CiO pinnacle. Follow the thin crack to below a large, slightly protruding block and pass this on its left. Gain the small ledge above the block and then follow the narrow arete to a narrow block above. Finish through the V-notch and pleasant cracks above. The arete gives good exposed climbing with adequate protection - a superb line.

4. The Carnival is Over (18) ***** Photo 1| Photo 2

Opening party: Dave Freer, Barbara Freer, Gary Hodgekinson and Pete Hawkes (Date ?)

The seaward side of the CiO pinnacle is split into thirds by two horizontal rails. The bottom two thirds are also split up the centre by a vertical crack. Climb the vertical crack up the centre of the first third of the pinnacle to reach a protruding block at the first rail. Continue easily up the crack to the second rail. Traverse to the right for about 2m to reach the next crack which widens towards the top. Climb this crack to the top (crux).

The first third is technical and gear is sparse but adequate - about grade 17. The next third of the climb is about 14 and well protected. The final crack is a tricky 18 but you can always get solid gear up above your head as you climb. This is a superb route.

Opening party: Allen Luck and Derek Marshall (June 2002)

Start on the face to the left of 'The Carnival is Over' next to the big, blocky chimney formed by the 'Flycatcher' blocks. Move in through the arch under the top block on 'Flycatcher' and then continue up to the top. No gear on the lower half, but very easy climbing

6. Flycatcher (18) 25 m *** Photo 1 : Photo 2 : Photo 3

Opening party: Pete Hawkes, Dominic Venter and Pete Lazarus (6 July 1986)

This route is located on a face formed by three large, perched blocks, just to the left of the CiO face and leaning towards the CiO pinnacle. Climb the face of the first block (crux), starting just to the left of the right-hand corner, and reaching the top near the left. Rail right and continue up the face on the right-hand edge to a belay ledge. Scramble to the top of the pinnacle. A superb route, though not very well protected on the face of the first block.

Opening party: Allen Luck and Derek Marshall (June 2002) 

Reach the top of the pillar by climbing straight up the scrappy line immediately to the left of the 'Flycatcher' blocks. 

5I. CARNIVAL IS OVER WALL (LOWER) - Location : Map

This face is still under development and is reached by abseil from the grassy ledge at the base of the Carnival is Over Pillar. There are already 2 or 3 good routes down here, but I haven't got the details yet.

5J. WHALE BONE RIDGE - Location : Topo : Photo

This fairly long crag lies near the top of the Fifth Headland and may be accessed by taking the easy descent gully on the Double Mouth side of the Carnival is Over Pillar and then turning to the right at the first opportunity as you descend. This takes you onto a secure grassy ledge that runs along the base of Whale Bone Ridge for its full length. It is also possible to scramble up or down at the Double Mouth end of the crag, but this scramble is a lot steeper and not quite as easy to find. The routes are listed from left to right starting from the furthest end of the usual walk-in.

Opening party: Allen Luck and Craig Bester (2001)

Climb the obvious, major crack line up the centre of the slabs at the far left-hand end of the crag.

Opening party: Gavin Peckham, Anthony van Tonder and Robert (Bugs) Sprouse (09 January 2002)

Climb the right-hand side of the face to the right of the 'Curly, Whirly, Twirly Route' and just to the left of the two chossy chimneys in the corner.

Opening party: Alan Luck and Craig Bester (2001)

Climb the big crack just to the right of the two chossy chimneys in the corner.

4. On Wings of Fire (17) **** Photo

Opening party: Derek Marshall and Allen Luck (2002)

To the right of 'Layback Sunday' there is a smooth face. Around the corner to the right of this is an awesome off-width crack. #5 and #6 cams are required - climb it!

Opening party: Alan Luck and Derek Marshall (2001)

Start in the chimney around the corner to the right of 'Wings of Fire'. Climb the chimney and break to the left higher up.

Opening party: Alan Luck and Derek Marshall (2002)

Use the same start as 'Push To Go' but break to the right higher up.

Opening party: Allen Luck and Craig Bester (2002)

Climb the chimney immediately left of 'Whale Tail Crack'

8. Whale Tail Crack (16) *** Photo

Opening party: Derek Marshall and Allen Luck (2001)

Climb a recess / off-width in left-facing corner to reach the start of twin cracks that are followed to the top.

9. Sea Breeze (18) *** Photo

Opening party: Gavin Raubenheimer and Gavin Peckham (04 January 2002)

Climb the big, deep crack that splits the middle of the smooth face to the right of 'Whale Tail Crack'.

10. Tom Cat (14) *** Photo

Opening party: Gavin Peckham and Gavin Raubenheimer (04 January 2002)

Start one metre to the right of 'Sea Breeze' and follow the thin but obvious line that tends up diagonally to the right. Gear is sparse.

11. Dat Thing (16) ** Photo

Opening party: Derek Marshall and Allen Luck (2002)

Start about 3 m to the right of 'Tom Cat' and directly below an obvious, loose looking block about half way up the face. Climb straight up past the block to the top.

12. My Pregnant Aunt (20) *** Photo

Opening party: Derek Marshall (2001)

There is a small buttress / pillar towards the right-hand end of Whale Bone Ridge, not far from the scramble down. Start up the centre of a smooth block to reach a rail at about 3 m and then follow the obvious crack line to the top. Beware of the small, cammed block. It is safe to pull on, but do not place gear in the crack beneath it.

5K. THE NEEDLE WALL - Location : Topo

It is probably easiest to reach climbs on the Needle Wall by walking in along the base of Whale Bone Ridge, then down and around the end of the Mine face, heading back along the bottom of the Mine face to reach the Needle face. If you know where to look you can also walk (5 steps) from the base of Whale Bone Ridge onto the top of the Needle and then down-climb the easy route 'Step By Step' which is the usual way back down to the base of the Needle face. This is a fairly rectangular face and the name refers, not to its shape, but simply to the name of the premier route. The routes are listed from left to right.

Opening party: Allen Luck (2001)

A large crack runs behind the Needle Wall and separates it from the grassy ledge that runs along the bottom of Whale Bone Ridge. This crack creates a chimney at both ends. 'Step by Step' climbs the big, easy chimney at the back of the left-hand end of the Needle Wall. 'Stitch by Stitch' takes the chimney at the right-hand end of the wall. 'Step by Step' makes a reasonably secure descent scramble from other climbs in the vicinity.

2. - climb the arete on the left-hand side of the face - not yet opened.

Opening party: Gordon Bosch, Dave Freer, Barbara Freer and Steve Cooke. Date ?

Start in a slight recess near the middle of the face and continue straight up through the overhang. Pass the roof diagonally up to the right and go up about 2 m to a rail. Continue straight up the obvious break to the top. Very thin - gear is sparse but adequate. " The Needle is the short, hard overhang section and Damage Done is the horrible face".

Opening party: Gavin Raubenheimer and Gavin Peckham (04 January 2002)

Start a couple of metres to the right of 'The Needle and the Damage Done' and directly below the right-hand end of the narrow roof at the top of the face. Climb straight up to the top - thin.

Opening party: Gavin Raubenheimer and Gavin Peckham (04 January 2002)

Start at the right-hand end of the face and just left of the 'In Trance' recess. Climb straight up to the start of a series of thin vertical grooves and then up these to the top.

Opening party: Derek Marshall and Allen Luck (2001)

Start in the open book recess at the right-hand end of the Needle Wall and climb to the top, tending to the right at first and then following the line of least resistance.

Opening party: Allen Luck (2001)

Climb the big, easy chimney at the back of the right-hand end of the Needle Wall. This is the opposite end of the 'Step by Step' chimney - see above.

5L. THE MINE - Location : Topo : Photo

For access info, look under the Needle Wall above. This section of the crag is to the left of the Needle Wall and at the same level. It consists of a tall, blocky pillar (the Mine) with a shorter face stretching out to the left. the Needle Wall and the Mine both lie directly below Whale Bone Ridge. The routes are listed from right to left.

1. Hair of My Chinny Chin Chin (12) ***

Opening party: Allen Luck and Craig Bester (2002)

Start at the right-hand arete on the 'Mine' pillar and climb straight up easy ledges and blocks to the top.

Opening party: Steve Cooke, Barbara Freer and Dave Freer (Date ?)

Start on the right-hand side of the dirty recess in the front of the pillar. Climb up and then step right up a slightly off balance section and diagonally traverse up and around to the left avoiding the dangerous loose block at the top. A very pleasant, technical route with 'exits' at each level - hence the name.

Opening party: Derek Marshall and Allen Luck (2002)

Start in the left-hand side of the dirty recess in the front of the pillar. Continue up the obvious line until it merges with 'Mine Shaft' - merely a variation of 'Mine Shaft'.

Opening party: Derek Marshall and Allen Luck (2002)

Climb straight up the slabs to the left of the dirty recess. Move left to reach an open book which is followed to the top.

Opening party: Allen Luck and Craig Bester (2002)

Start up the chimney nearest to the pillar and follow the easiest line to the top.

Opening party: Allen Luck and Derek Marshall (2002)

"Past vegetation, up twin cracks" ! (sic)

Opening party: Derek Marshall and Allen Luck (2002)

Climb the short off-width crack near the middle of the face. Number 6 cam required.

Opening party: Derek Marshall and Allen Luck (2002)

Start directly below the obvious, protruding cammed block. Climb up to the block, pass it on the right and continue to the top.

Opening party: Allen Luck and Derek Marshall (2001)

Start just to the left of the previous route and pass the protruding block on the right. Above the block the route follows the same line as 'Stone Age Cam'.

Note: The next three routes are just around the corner to the left of the obvious protruding block - Photo

Opening party: Allen Luck and Derek Marshall (2002)

Climb the arete at he left-hand end of the Mine Face.

11. Chicken Noodle (11) *** Photo

Opening party: Allen Luck and Craig Bester (2001)

Climb the big crack line up the short face around the corner, just to the left of 'Mine! Mine! Mine!'

Opening party: Craig Bester and Allen Luck (2001)

Climb the very short, easy crack line just to the left of the previous line.

5M. HOTTENTOT'S LEDGE 

This is a narrow ledge about 5 m above sea level. The first 10 m or so is up brown shale which Derek says is chossy rock but I after close inspection, I think it is actually quite good. There is plenty of potential here for new routes. The location is great but is not suited for high tide or windy days. Still under development.

Opening party: Derek Marshall and Tim ? (2001)

Climb the open book consisting of loose blocks. Dangerous - do not repeat !

5N. BAY OF PLENTY - Location : Topo : Photo

This easily accessible area consists of a short broken wall to the left of a group of pillars / outcrops near the top of the Fifth Headland on the Double Mouth side. The 'bay' between the pillars is densely packed with strelitzias. Route 1. is on the broken wall to the left. Route 2. is the only route on the first (left-hand) pillar. Routes 3. to 8. are all on the middle pillar and route 8. is on the last (right-hand) pillar.

1. Three In One (12) *** Photo

Opening party: Gavin Peckham (15 December 2002)

Climb an easy slab to a large ledge. Walk across to the left and then climb the short crack to another ledge. Finally, climb the good crack at the back of the right-facing open book.

2. SS General (20) **** Photo

Opening party: Derek Marshall and Rachel ??? (2001)

Climb the flaring crack, move to the right and then follow the crack to the top.

Opening party: Allen Luck and Craig Bester (2001) - see topo for location

Opening party: Allen Luck and Craig Bester (2001) - see topo for location

Opening party: Derek Marshall and Craig Bester (2002)

Start on a ledge behind the banana trees and climb straight up through a small roof.

Opening party: Derek Marshall and Allen Luck (2002)

Start around the corner to the right of 'Liquidate Paris'. Climb the first crack line that peters out near the top.

Opening party: Allen Luck and Craig Bester (2002)

Climb the wide crack to the left of the open book.

Opening party: Allen Luck and Craig Bester (2002)

Climb the open book.

Opening party: Allen Luck and Craig Bester (2001) 

Climb the blocky stack on the last pillar.

5O. BOOZE CRUISE - Location : Photo

Opening party: Robert (Bugs) Sprouse and Gavin Peckham (09 January 2002)

If you stand on 'Smooth Operator' and look straight uphill, there is a small crag up towards the top of the headland and slightly off to the left. There are two obvious parallel crack lines towards the left-hand end of this crag. 'Booze Cruise' takes the left-hand crack line.

5P. THE TUSK - Location : Topo : Photo

This is a magic freestanding pillar down near sea level on the Double Mouth side of the Fifth Headland. It is probably safest to abseil into the base of the pillar, but there is a steep scramble through a rat-hole if you prefer. Note: to get off the top of the pillar you need to loop your rope over the top, abseil off and then pull or flick your rope free. Hopefully chains will be installed in the near future. The following routes start on the side nearest the end of the Headland and are listed clockwise from right to left.

Opening party: Allen Luck and Craig bester (2002)

Pitch 1 (17) : Climb the open book to a ledge. Pitch 2 (12) : Climb the chimney starting from the ledge.

Opening party: Derek Marshall and Allen Luck (2002)

Climb the awkward off-width to the top of the Tusk

Opening party: Derek Marshall and Craig Bester (2002)

Climb the perfect crack and then continue up ledges, tending left to the top.

Opening party: Derek Marshall and Kendyl Kunhardt (2002)

Climb the off-width to the left of 'Desperate Dan'

Opening party: Derek Marshall, Carl Fatti and Robert 'Bugs' Sprouse (2002)

Climb the open book to the face.

5Q. SLIPPERY WHEN WET - Location : Topo

This refers to two outcrops located directly below the 'Bay of Plenty' and just above the level of the 'Tusk', but slightly further away from the end of the Headland. The first four routes are on the upper outcrop and are listed clockwise from right to left. The next four routes are on the lower outcrop and are also listed from right to left.

Opening party: The Wild Man (November 2001) Climb the short, easy chimney.

Opening party: Derek Marshall and Allen Luck (November 2001)

Start just to the left of 'Wild Man' with awkward moves and little gear to reach a perfect crack that is followed to the top.

Opening party: Derek Marshall and Gavin Peckham (15 December 2002)

Start up the corner immediately to the right of the 'Black Mermaid' chimney. Climb up to the small roof. Exit to the right onto the face using good holds in the crack above and then climb straight on up to the top.

Opening party: Allen Luck and Derek Marshall (15 December 2002)

Climb the off-width / chimney formed by a gigantic flake and then continue on up to the top. The last gear is under the small roof on 'Stand Alone'.

Opening party: Derek Marshall and Gavin Peckham (15 December 2002)

On the uphill side of the lower outcrop there are a pair of off-widths that meet at a corner. Climb the right-hand off-width to the roof. Exit to the right and then continue straight up.

Opening party: Allen Luck and Derek Marshall (15 December 2002)

Climb the left-hand chimney crack then go through a keyhole into a cave. Climb straight up to emerge in the centre of the outcrop.

Opening party: Derek Marshall and Allen Luck (15 December 2002)

Climb the awesome layback flake on the Double Mouth side.

Opening party: Allen Luck and Derek Marshall (15 December 2002)

Climb the off-width to a ledge and then up the open book to the top.

5R. MADE TO FIT - Location : Topo

This is the irregular outcrop on the inland side of Slippery When Wet. In order to locate the routes it is probably best to start from the Pivotal Motion (inland) side of the crag with the fairly obvious route 'Made to Fit' and then work you way to the right from there.

1. Made To Fit (14) ** Photo

Opening party: Allen Luck and Apprentices (15 December 2002)

Start at the extreme left-hand side of the crag and climb the obvious series of corners to the top.

Opening parting: Craig Bester and Derek Marshall (01 December 2002)

To the right (seaward side) of 'Made To Fit' there is a rectangular recess. Climb the easy crack on the wall to the left of the right-facing corner at the back of the recess.

Opening parting: Craig Bester and Derek Marshall (01 December 2002)

Climb the easy right-facing corner at the back of the rectangular recess.

Opening parting: Craig Bester and Derek Marshall (01 December 2002)

There is a second rectangular recess to the right of the previous one. Climb the fist-jam crack up the right-facing (left-hand) up to an off-width that is followed to the top.

Opening parting: Derek Marshall and Craig Bester (01 December 2002)

Start towards the right of the wall at the back of the second rectangular recess and climb the diagonal crack system through an easy ramp.

Opening parting: Derek Marshall and Allen Luck (01 December 2002)

Start to the right of the previous route. Climb the undercut off-width that faces the Double Mouth side of the crag.

Opening party: Gavin Peckham (15 December 2002)

Climb the sharp arete on the right-hand side of the protruding buttress to the right of the previous route.

5S. PIVOTAL MOTION - Location : Topo : Photo

This outcrop is just to the inland side of Made To Fit. The routes are listed from right to left.

1. Pivotal Motion (14) *** 

Opening party: Gavin Peckham and Robert (Bugs) Sprouse (09 January 2002)

This pinnacle is about 2/3 of the way down from the top of the headland to the sea. The route is on the side that faces towards the end of the headland (seaward side). Climb up the left-tending flake line to the rail / ledge. Move left and then continue up to the top. You can get on or off the pillar via a steep scramble of about grade 9 on the uphill side.

Bolted project: Derek Marshall

A bolted project around the arete to the left of 'Pivotal Motion'.

Opening party: Allen Luck and Derek Marshall (September 2002)

Climb the off-width to the left of 'De Brug' through roofs to the top.

Opening party: Allen Luck and Craig Bester (September 2002)

To the left of 'Allen's Fat Crack' there is a rectangular recess. Climb the left-facing corner at the right-hand side of the recess.

Opening party: Craig Bester and Allen Luck (September 2002)

Climb the broken crack up the centre of the back wall of the rectangular recess to the left of 'Allen's Fat Crack'.

5T. JUST A BREEZE - Photo Where is this - L or R of Smooth Operator ?

Opening party: Derek Marshall (15 December 2002)

Climb the very short, easy crack on the seaward side of the block to reach a ledge and then climb the very short face to the top. It is a bit of a jump to get off.

Opening party: Gavin Peckham (15 December 2002)

Start to the left of 'Small Fry' but just to the right of the blunt arete and climb to the top of the block on thin holds. Quite short with no gear but quite technical. 

5U. SMOOTH OPERATOR - Location

Smooth Operator consists of two adjacent blocks

1. Smooth Operator (19) *** Photo 1 : Photo 2

Opening party: Gavin Peckham (09 January 2002)

This pillar is at about the same level as 'Pivotal Motion' but is about 20 m further towards the inland side. The route goes up the side that faces towards the end of the headland. Climb the centre of the face, passing just to the left of the only big pocket on the face and using smears and small, shallow scoops. There is absolutely no gear. Solo or top-rope until the line is bolted. There is a good landing on soft grass if you come off - as you get higher this thought becomes a less comforting. 

2. Forked Tongue (12) ** Photo

Opening party: Gavin Peckham (15 December 2002)

This in on the Double Mouth side of the block immediately inland from the 'Smooth Operator' block.

Copyright: MCSA - KZN 2001 ©

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